(upbeat music) - [Eric Hanson] I've returned to one of my favorite cities in the whole world.

I'm here in Cusco, Peru.

- [Pepe Lopez] Very good rapids.

A lot of action and adrenaline.

- Watch your head.

Whoop.

Good thing I'm wearing a helmet.

This truck here has now broken down.

I'm kinda scared here.

We're right on the edge of the cliff 300 tons worth of heavy machinery.

It is time for action.

The next three days of trekking through the mountains.

It's gonna be rugged.

It's gonna be beautiful.

We are on the old Inca trail right now, right about 10,500 feet.

So, I can really feel the elevation up here.

Oh my goodness.

This is one of the most incredible places I've ever trekked.

I'm Eric Hanson.

When I see a trail, I see more than a path from point A to point B. A good trail is the ultimate opportunity to explore, to discover new landscapes and to challenge myself.

When I don't have a pack on my back, I'm thinking about my next big adventure, because my mission is simple.

My mission is to discover the world's most epic trails.

Epic Trails is made possible by the following Alaska by rail.

Passengers can travel the coasts and wilderness of Alaska with baggage, service, meals, and wheelchair access.

Information available at AlaskaRailroad.com Collette offers small group exploration tours, destinations and local experiences.

Explorations by Collette.

Guided travel since 1918.

Vivid-Pix memory station and software allows users to scan personal history items like photos and documents, record voice narrative, and share what has been conserved.

More online at Vivid-pix.com.

Host- Additonal support provided by these sponsors ♪ upbeat music (Latin music) I've returned to one of my favorite cities in the whole world.

I'm here in Cusco, Peru.

It's full of ancient stonework that's just incredible examples like this.

The Inca stonework that's still standing today, and that the city is built upon.

This city is magical, I love this place.

The way that the hills just extend up from the city center.

And it's just full of these amazing narrow streets and beautiful architecture.

I'm going to be exploring all over Peru, but Cusco is one of the best adventure hubs that you can ask for.

So, I'm actually meeting up with some guides here today, exploring some of the sacred valley that's around here, going river rafting, exploring some of the ancient sites.

I'm super stoked to be back in Peru.

This is actually where I fell in love with international travel in the first place.

(upbeat music) - So this river is one of the main attractions for river rafting in Cusco.

Just a few rivers like this has a archeological remains along the river.

It was a sacred river for the Incas because the original river name was Willkamayu, which means sacred river in Quechua.

- [Eric] Ready, please.

- Primero.

- Si.

- Bueno.

Claro.

Senorita.

- So we're gonna be going through the Urubamba river which is one of the main rivers through the sacred valley.

It's a really critical river and it's a beautiful river.

Not only we're going to be surrounded by incredible mountain sides, but also some of the ancient Inca cities and features as well.

And we're going to be paddling and having a great time, but now it's time to get on the river.

(upbeat Latin music) Watch your heads.

Woo!

Good thing I'm wearing a helmet.

- Woo hoo!

- [Eric] What kind of class river is this?

- [Pepe] One of the rapids is three plus, - [Eric] Three plus?

- but in the rainy season is a class four, class five.

- [Eric] Wow.

- [Pepe] Sometimes un-runable, - [Eric] Really?

- [Pepe] because it's so high.

Very good rapids, a lot of action and adrenaline.

I have some experience doing rafting in different parts of the world.

This is one unique river in the world that has a ecological remain in both sides of the river.

- So this is not just a natural experience.

It's also a historical, archeological, cultural experience.

- [Pepe] Down river is (indistinct) that means, la porta de viento, the gate of the wind.

Wind gate.

- Why do they call it that?

- You will see.

(laughing) - So, I'll just preface this by saying, we were having a wonderful time.

And then Pepe decided to turn the reins over to me and control the boat.

And I'm just trying to keep the boat kind of in the middle, doing my thing.

Adalante!

Woo!

And all of a sudden, Pepe just gets more and more nervous.

- That way.

- And I'm just like, so I haven't figured out the oars yet.

And then he is like, "no, you missed the takeout."

I was like, "the takeout?"

I didn't know that I was right here.

- [Pepe] Okay.

Let me take it.

- [Eric] We had to circle around and paddle up stream and fight our way.

Because if we missed this takeout, we're going all the way to Machu Picchu.

Fun and adrenaline and heart pounding adventure.

Beginning to experience the river here, was such a wonderful way to be here in Peru, and kick off our amazing adventures here.

(Latin music) - Today I'm visiting El Mangal.

It's a lodge here in Peru and it specializes here in cacao and there is a particular variety that is actually an endangered variety of cacao that they have been taken care of.

Today, I'm going to get a chance to plant one, and to see the whole process of how pure cacao is made here in Peru.

I like Porfirio's style.

He's got the style of a true farmer of the Andes.

Wow.

Look at that.

I did not expect the cacao to be looking white inside.

This is the variety that we just planted, the cascara de huevo, and it's a smaller seed, which has made it not as desirable for mass production.

- [Porfirio] Cacao is coming from the tree, is coming here.

- [Eric] Yeah.

- Some of the fermentation is to make it dry.

- [Eric] To dry them.

So right now we're prepping the seeds to make chicha and it's a sweet drink that's very important for the workers when they're harvesting, when it's nice and fresh.

- [Eric] Mas, mas, mas.

(woman speaking Spanish) - [Woman] Si.

- [Eric] Okay.

El friccion esta importante?

- [Woman] Exacto.

- Yeah, it smells good.

Woo.

So at this stage in the process, we are trying the ponche, which is pure cacao mixed with water that was boiled.

Wow.

Super fuerte.

- [Woman] Super fuerte.

- Yeah, that's so good.

Sugar and milk to make a chocolate.

Wow.

That's good.

After a hard day's work of being a cacao farmer, I've got a full stomach and a happy heart.

I will miss El Mongal lodge.

- So, we've encountered a small problem here.

We're in this super narrow canyon, crazy road.

This truck here, has now broken down in front of us and completely blocking the route.

We've got people getting impatient here behind us on both sides.

It looks like the guy's stuck for the next five hours.

I hope that that is not the case because, we need to keep moving.

I guess they need a push, but they're not willing to coordinate because they work for different companies.

I guess it must be a liability thing.

Don't blame them there.

Crew here is rallying to open a passage up, so that some of their cars can pass at least.

It is tight.

One car already drove through here and there was about two millimeters on each side.

We're going to set up a little, a little community right here on the roadside.

So, I got a little cocoa ice cream and some toilet paper.

You know, you never know what's going to happen.

We could be here a while.

(Man speaking Spanish) (high intensity music playing) - So we just got an update.

We got authorization for the two companies to work together.

So we're bringing in some heavy machinery, and we're actually going to try to shift this large truck towards the cliff side, allowing us enough for him to pass.

I'm kind of scared here.

We're right on the edge of the cliff.

We just got about, 300 tons worth of heavy machinery.

Hoo!

It's working!

It's working!

We're going to be able to pass!

Now, it's time to go.

That was like a three hour delay.

We've got an adventure to get to.

We've been driving along and seeing passion fruit everywhere.

- Inside the white one, it's uh, how do you say?

Like tentacles.

Very sweet.

- Tentacles?

- Yeah, like tentacles.

- Porfirio just saw a farmer that had some boxed up.

So, he was taking them to market.

So, we thought we'd save the guy a little trip and we're just going to eat this alien larva that's inside.

The texture is unique, but the taste is very good.

So, we've been driving all day and we've come to a point where an old landslide has actually made the road not possible to cross.

So, we've come to a walking bridge.

We're going to have to cross the walking bridge with everything that we need for the next three days of trekking.

We're linking up with another vehicle on the other side to continue to our actual trailhead for the trek.

But it kind of feels like the expedition starts right now.

So, we arrived really late at Yanama, which is the beginning of our trek.

I'm just setting my tent up, and getting it right perched on this edge.

It's an amazing viewpoint.

And then it's time for dinner.

They have a little surprise for me here.

- [Pepe] We have a special welcome for you.

- [Eric] Oh yeah?

- It's coming from the host family.

Very special dish.

You are a special guest.

- [Eric] Oh, wow.

That looks amazing.

- It's our custom to have in our town.

- [Eric] Yes.

- Like our birthday, anniversary, and like this moment, a welcome dinner for you.

- [Eric] Wow, that looks intense.

Here in Peru, there is a cultural tradition to offer a guest or somebody that you're trying to please, to give them a cuy.

Now, in the US, eating guinea pig might be like, kind of like eating a pet.

However, you have to kind of step back a second and be like, well, these people are trying to show me great respect.

And the texture is interesting.

Kind of like eating into a football that tastes really good.

Oh, wow.

That's got a really nice flavor.

The biggest object of eating cuy, is just getting over the mind game of eating this thing that's practically smiling back at you as you eat it.

It is time for action.

It has been a mission just to get here.

But now we've camped at our base camp, which is Yanama here.

And loading up the horses with our gear for the next few days and we're going to Vicos.

So, it's going to be the next three days of trekking through the mountains.

This whole trek is really off the beaten path.

Most people are on the main Inca trail or the Salkantay, but here we're going to be practically on our own in the mountains.

It's going to be rugged.

It's going to be beautiful.

Can't wait.

(upbeat music playing) - It is time for action.

The next three days of trekking through the mountains.

And I'm super excited about this, and I'm getting to go with an amazing crew.

And I can't wait.

Porfirio, donde vamos?

Where are we going today?

- Actually, you're going down, after the bridge, we need to climb this mountain.

- That ridge, that's only like 3,000, 4,000 feet up?

- Yes, yes.

Only.

- Only.

- Only.

- So, how long do you think it'll take us?

- Five hours.

- Five hours?

You want to lead the way?

- [Porfirio] Yeah.

- [Eric] You are the guide.

- [Porfirio] Vamos.

(Peruvian music playing) - We're at about 10,500 feet.

So, I can really feel the elevation up here already.

I cannot explain to you how much I love it out here.

It feels so good.

The climate is amazing.

The mountains, the river, the bird life that's all around me.

It's just truly incredible.

- So, this trek is not for anyone, because it's, it's kind of tough, but it's great.

People who likes to trek, people who like the mountains, these are something very special, very unique.

- Cross a beautiful bridge, mind blowing.

It's kind of like the first introduction to, hey, you're hiking in the Andes here.

The trail goes up from there and immediately it dawns on me, oh no, this is going to be tough.

I'm feeling it.

We have come up a long ways.

We're at 11,600 feet here.

Which we've actually been kind of flattening out, but we're entering into a new canyon.

And the biome here is totally changing.

It's way more tropical and lush.

Lot more vegetation, it's a lot wetter in here.

So, it's a fascinating place.

Just seeing the way that these mountains change.

We're going up this valley and to my right, I just see these amazing peaks come around the bend.

- [Porfirio] This natural farm, the place named Unusaminchana.

They try to make like a temple here.

- [Eric] Really?

- Yeah.

Like a (speaking Spanish), we usually call it like that.

The main place.

The Unusaminchana.

- What is, do you know what that means?

- Like a temple of the water.

- Temple of the water.

- Temple of the water.

Yeah.

That's the window.

This room, they already make it like some sacred place for the water.

- [Eric] I see camp in the distance.

This isn't the backpacking trip that I take with some buddies back home.

There is a huge team that makes this happen.

Because this is a luxury experience out here in a way.

This is high class trekking out here.

Ah, muchas gracias.

So, I'm just setting up my tent.

We made it up really high.

We're up at almost 13,000 feet.

And the pass that's behind me, is actually our objective for tomorrow.

And call it a night.

Get some good sleep tonight.

(Peruvian music playing) (upbeat music playing) - We are setting off through this valley.

So, you can see back behind me our porter crew that is working to move camp, but we're actually taking a different route.

We are on the old Inca trail, right now.

You can see some of this incredible stonework.

So, I think one of the ideas that people have is that, there's only one Inca trail.

And it's the, the trail that you take to Machu Picchu.

- Many Inca trails is connecting with each place, each town of Peru.

And well connecting with Chile, Bolivia, Ecuador, Colombia and Argentina.

- [Eric] It's amazing how durable these trails are, that these are hundreds of years old and we can still be going along these mountain passes and it's still in great shape.

It didn't dawn on me until we began really trekking, how high we really had to go, over the troca de carpa pass.

Oh my goodness.

This is one of the most incredible places I've ever trekked.

Wow.

Woo!

- Well done.

- Porfirio.

- Bien hecho.

Bien hecho.

- Gracias.

Gracias amigos.

- I want to say something probably in my language.

- Yes, please.

(Porfirio speaking Spanish) - [Eric] It was very touching.

Allowed me to see the personal side of Porfirio and his true connection that he's had to this landscape, into this place, into this history.

He does a ceremony to kind of honor the Apu, the mountains, to ask for permission to go through the mountain pass with safety.

What else can you say other than that, it's the literal high point.

The emotional high point.

It is the highlight of the trail and I couldn't help but tear up and get emotional.

And it was deeply moving for me.

Experience of a lifetime that's for sure.

(Latin music playing) - So, we're leaving camp this morning.

We've got about two hours of hiking ahead of us.

And the goal for today, is to actually get to a place called Vilcas.

Which is an archeological site that we've been trekking to this whole time, going through these amazing mountain passes.

And we're dropping back into kind of where people still live today.

So, we're passing through current villages on our way to an ancient village.

(cow mooing) So this is the Inca technology in action right now.

- A tractor.

- A tractor, yeah.

- This is the ancestral tractor.

- Yeah, the ancestral tractor.

That's great.

Woo.

Wow.

(laughing) Lot of eggs this morning.

There you go.

You still remember?

- [Porfirio] Yeah.

Just to remember.

- Okay.

(speaking Spanish) - The first job I had actually with my brothers.

It was being a farmer.

Looking at this guy using this tool, almost make me cry and we've not start yet, because each corner around here, it is my life.

I like it, how you say?

The smell of the earth.

- [Eric] The smell of the earth.

- [Porfirio] Yuraq Rumi.

- [Eric] Yuraq Rumi.

- [Porfirio] But actually the locals call it Yuraq Rumil.

This is one of the most important place or this kind of rock we have here.

Yuraq Rumi.

It's white rocks, main ceremonial temple.

We are one of the small town.

The families bring the transportation of products.

- So, this would be like a trade route?

Is that a unique shape?

The circle with the doorway?

- The circles mean, like, the relations going with the mother earth.

- [Eric] Oh, okay.

- Climbing the mountain, hiking the Inca trails, and show that to people around the world, all these places, I really love it.

And still many mysteries in our life, in our ancestral life.

I'm being passionate to show the world, all these places around us.

The last place, our last Inca, Manco Inca, who refugeed in this area.

We already arrived now in Vicos.

- [Eric] Vicos.

- Or, Pilcopata.

After the Spaniards arrived in Cusco, our last Inca, Manco Inca, it was the last place he arrived here, and take this area like refugees.

We can appreciate here.

- [Eric] Yeah.

- This construction it's originally and classic for in compare.

This kind of door, it's going in a special place, like a royal buildings.

- [Eric] Yeah.

- [Porfirio] Or they're some temple.

But we are now in the main plaza, but all these ruins, all these buildings could be the royal houses.

- Well, we've done it.

We've made it to Vicos.

The end of our trek is here.

And honestly, this is just an incredible place to wrap up an amazing few days in the mountains.

We've come down a long way from the high pass.

We're actually not too far from Machu Picchu.

And it feels like Machu Picchu here, except this place is totally empty.

It's just an amazing place to wrap up our journey here with Apumayo Expeditions.

They have been an incredible team to hike with and to learn from Porfirio.

I'm going to remember this for the rest of my life.

From the challenges of rugged high altitude passes, to the comradery of hiking together and watching the clouds spill over the mountains.

There's something beautiful about life on the trail.

Pepe, Porfirio, and the team here at Apumayo Expediciones, have been such an influence on me through this adventure.

Not only are they guides to travelers like me, but they're stewards, caring for the trail, the land and the people.

(Peruvian music playing) The Cusco region is world famous and rightfully so.

It's rich past, remarkable landscape and colorful culture, is an experience to behold.

Epic Trails is made possible by the following Alaska by rail.

Passengers can travel the coasts and wilderness of Alaska with baggage, service, meals, and wheelchair access.

Information available at AlaskaRailroad.com Collette offers small group exploration tours, destinations and local experiences.

Explorations by Collette.

Guided travel since 1918.

Vivid-Pix memory station and software allows users to scan personal history items like photos and documents, record voice narrative, and share what has been conserved.

More online at Vivid-pix.com.

Host- Additonal support provided by these sponsors ♪ upbeat music (upbeat music playing)