
Q&A Show #3 - Weeds
Season 14 Episode 19 | 27m 28sVideo has Closed Captions
Chris Cooper and his guests answer viewer questions about weeds.
This week on The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South it’s the Q&A show! UT Extension Agent Dr. Chris Cooper and his guests answer viewer questions about weeds.
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Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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Q&A Show #3 - Weeds
Season 14 Episode 19 | 27m 28sVideo has Closed Captions
This week on The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South it’s the Q&A show! UT Extension Agent Dr. Chris Cooper and his guests answer viewer questions about weeds.
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship- Hi, thanks for joining us for The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South.
I'm Chris Cooper.
Ask any gardener what are their biggest problems and weeds will certainly be on the list.
Today is the Q and A show, but with a twist.
Every question is about weeds.
That's just ahead on The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South.
- (female announcer) Production funding for The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South is provided by the WKNO Production Fund, the WKNO Endowment Fund, and by viewers like you, thank you.
[upbeat country music] - Welcome to The Family Plot.
I'm Chris Cooper.
Weeds are a fact of life for every gardener.
Just when you have everything looking perfect, you notice a weed.
And as you are pulling that one, it seems that two more appear.
Today we're going to spend the whole time catching up on viewer questions about those pesky plants.
Let's start with a question about what many consider to be the world's worst weed, nutsedge.
[upbeat country music] "I have limited sun in my yard "and used to grow prolific tomatoes "in the sunny 10 by 12 foot area until nutgrass arrived.
"So like other weeds, I proceeded to pull the nutgrass.
"Little did I know, the next year "I had more nutgrass because I pulled the tops "and encouraged the corms underground.
"I have tried newspaper, four inches of mulch, "cardboard, raised beds to no avail.
"I've also sprayed a sedge spray, "but it is too close to the tomatoes "to effectively use spray.
"I know I can dig 8 to 10 inches "and dispose of the soil and corms.
"Not feasible.
How can I get rid of nutsedge?"
And this is Erica from Yorktown, Virginia.
Very detailed question.
I like that.
So have you had any experience with nutsedge or nutgrass as some people call it?
- Has she considered dynamite?
[Chris laughing] - Has she considered dynamite?
There you go, Ms. Erica.
Have you considered that?
- It's hard to get rid of.
- It is very difficult to get rid of, right?
And it has tubers instead of the corms, nutlets or tubers, okay, which feeds the plant like carbohydrates and such.
Yeah, so your best bet is gonna be to try to dig it out.
- Yes.
- I mean, that's your best bet.
'Cause yeah, she's right.
If you just pull it, yeah, you leave, you know, those nutlets in the ground.
Well, yes, there's plenty more underground where that comes from.
- Yes.
- So you definitely want to try to get all of the root system as you possibly can.
But she said it was too close to use a spray.
But you know what I would do though?
I would use the wipe technique, right?
So I would pour that concentrate into a little lid, a little container, right?
Dip my, you know, paint brush, a little piece of sponge, and I would get in between those tomatoes and I would actually wipe that sedge spray, right?
Or that sedge concentration on the nutsedge and see if that can be effective for you, right?
So anything, a Halosulfuron, or Imazaquin, you know, controls sedges very well.
Just read and follow the label.
But that's what I would do.
You know, if you really wanna get rid of it, right?
Because, yeah, spraying two gallon container, you might get drift, you might affect your tomatoes.
But again, if you use that wipe technique.
Yeah.
- And it's fussy.
- Paintbrush.
- Fussy to do.
But you can do it.
- Yes.
You can do it.
- And it's easier than digging down 12 inches of soil.
- Yeah, she said that's not feasible.
- Right.
[Chris laughing] - She did say it's not feasible.
So that's what I would do.
Yeah, so a piece of sponge or a paint brush or a little rag or something like that.
Just kind of dip it and grab it and just wipe it.
- Gloves.
Wear gloves.
- Gloves.
Right, wear gloves.
Right, wear gloves.
Read and follow the label.
I think that'll get you, Ms. Erica.
So yeah, a little short of dynamite, but you know, [laughs] it'll get you, right?
[gentle country music] "I have lots of monkey grass growing all over my yard.
"I want to create a monkey grass-free bed.
"How long must I wait after killing the monkey grass "and digging up the roots before I can put in new plants?
"What type of barriers should I use around a flower bed to keep monkey grass out?"
This is Lenny from St. Louis, Missouri.
Oh.
Oh boy.
- This one made me think about all of the Liriope that I have growing in random places in my yard.
- Oh, so you have, okay.
- Yes, yes.
- All right.
- I think that anybody who has a home that had any landscaping done in the '80s or '90s was required to have Liriope.
- That sounds so true.
[laughs] That sounds so true.
[laughs] Wow, so look, we don't know what he used, - You know, to try to kill it - Right.
or whatever the case may be.
But I'll tell you this, you better dig deep.
- Right.
- You better get all the roots.
- Yeah.
So good storage in those, you know, underground structures.
And so it's gonna make it hard to get good fast kill on, you know, on anything.
- Yeah.
- Physical measures- - Physical measures.
- May come into play.
- It may come into play.
You got that right.
Yeah, so yeah, depending on what he used or whatever he did.
Yeah, we don't know how long it's gonna take.
We don't know what time of the year he did that.
You know, whatever the case may be.
- Season, right?
- Right, yeah.
- Whether the plant, you know, how it's actively translocating.
There's lots of factors.
- Yeah, we don't know that.
But again, I'm just gonna go back to it because I've done this, you know, this is experience for me.
You know, just digging, digging, digging, trying to get it out and get all of the root system.
Now, as far as a barrier.
- I would be hesitant to suggest anything because I just feel that it would have a lower chance of success.
- No edging I know would do the trick.
- Yeah.
- Concrete footers?
No.
You know?
- Yeah.
- No.
- Yeah, I mean, it would need to be deep.
It would need to be- - It'd be pretty deep.
- Essentially impermeable.
It would be tough.
- It'd be tough, yeah.
It's almost like talking about bamboo, you know?
- Right.
- So yeah.
Yeah, I don't know any type of physical barrier.
- Yeah, I think removal.
- Removal, right.
Just removal.
- Yeah.
- So Lenny, you're gonna have your work cut out for you.
You know, so sharpen that shovel up and yeah, just get all of the root system up as you possibly can.
Right?
And maybe consider something else.
- Yeah, that's good exercise.
I mean, we should say that there are different Liriope species and so some are more aggressive, shall we say- - Right, some are more aggressive.
- Than others, so yeah.
- Yeah, your clump form may stay there, some of them might run away from you.
- Yeah.
- But yeah, it's gonna be work.
[gentle country music] "How can I kill wiregrass in monkey grass?
"I don't know what the actual grass name is, but it runs everywhere and is real wire."
I like that.
Patricia from Gastonia, North Carolina.
So yes, she wants to kill wiregrass in monkey grass.
So we're gonna go again to our turf expert here.
What's wiregrass?
- One thing wiregrass really, really is Bermuda grass that got in there.
But whatever you decide to use on there, you might wanna see what's in there.
But whatever you use on it, I would start off small while I spray it on there.
I'd do a little small area just to make sure it don't kill my monkey grass in there because you don't want that spread and it kill everything.
But there is a herbicide that you can spray on there just to get rid of the, I wanna say Bermuda grass, [laughs] the wiregrass is the same thing, Bermuda grass out of your monkey grass in there.
- Right, sure, sure.
- In there.
- I like the fact she says "It's real wire."
- Real wire.
[laughs] - And I'll jump in here, Peter, for this one.
So wiregrass, of course Bermuda, in monkey grass.
Monkey grass is not a true grass.
It's a lily, it's in the lily family.
It's a lily turf, right?
So there are a couple of chemicals that you can use to spray over the top of the monkey grass that won't affect the monkey grass like Ornamec, Grass B Gon, Fusilade II.
Right, so those contain active ingredients, right, that are selective.
It only targets the Bermuda, but it releases everything else, right?
So it releases the monkey grass.
Just read and follow the label on that.
- Yeah.
- But I do like the test idea.
- Test idea.
Yes, small area before you do all of it.
You don't want to have.
Yeah, read the label, like he said.
- Right, read the label.
- Might be a [indistinct] gauge on there that you might want to use on there.
- It definitely will be.
And something else I would do too.
You could just use the wipe technique, right.
You know, get you a piece of sponge, a little paint brush or something like that, dip it in there and just kind of wipe it on there and just go that route, you know, instead of spraying everything.
- Everything, yeah.
- And that will get down into the root systems and it should take care of it that way.
[gentle country music] "Don't laugh at me, Mr. Leigh, "but my front yard faces a highway with a slope "and has Bermuda and torpedograss.
"I'm content to have both, "but crabgrass has started to move in.
"What can I use to kill crabgrass but leave torpedo and Bermuda grass alone?"
And this is Dwayne on YouTube.
So there you go, Mr. Leigh.
- Okay.
- Just for you.
So yeah, how do you control the crabgrass without harming the Bermuda and torpedograss?
- One thing, you have a really good thick turf that'll crowd out lot of stuff and everything.
- Okay.
- Try to put me a pre-emerge down to try to get rid of that crabgrass before it begin to germinate- - Okay.
- In there.
Now, a long time ago you'd have, I don't know, still might can find it, MSMA.
You put that, you might not be able to find, I don't know if you can find MSMA or not right now.
But what did they try?
- So yeah, for the post-emergent, you have to use quinclorac.
- Quinclorac, okay.
- Yeah, for the pre-emerge is dithiopyr or pendimethalin.
- Pendimethalin, yeah.
Read and follow the label on there and everything.
Now, a lot of time when you pre-emergent herbicide, you probably need to be watered in once you put it down.
So you need to read the label on there.
'Cause you can't put it down there.
It'll give you so many days you need to water in there, so.
And I like to put mine down when I know it's gonna rain.
'Cause I don't wanna be out there watering no grass in.
- And then watch your toxicity also- - Okay.
- For the animals.
Reading the labels for the animals.
- Right.
- Whether they can eat any of it or even be on it for X amount of time.
- Oh, that's good, yeah.
- Read that label.
- That's gonna be on the label, you're exactly right.
- You're right, yeah.
- Right.
Exactly right.
- Yeah, for your animals and your pets and everything like that, yeah.
- You know, I've used MSMA and I know it has some, it has grazing restrictions, so.
- Okay, yeah.
- Again, which is why it's always important to read the label.
- Read the label on that and make sure, yeah.
- You know, crabgrass is a, you know, a summer annual, you know, grass.
Now, when you put down the pre-emerge, I mean, you can put it down in the spring, you know, early and you would target the growth of Forsythia.
'Cause when Forsythia starts to grow, that means the soil is warm enough- - Gotcha.
- For crabgrass to start germinating.
- Gotcha.
And that's the one of the first ones too.
- Right, it's one of the first ones that come out.
Yeah, and that thing, you know, kind of varies from year to year depending on the temperature.
- We all notice that 'cause it's yellow and it's early.
- That's right.
- So it's time to treat your crabgrass then?
- Right, so you can- - Gotcha.
- Put down your pre-emerge, you know, at that time and then, you know, read and follow the label and it'll tell you when to put it out again.
[gentle country music] "How can I get rid of milkweed?
"It has taken over my flower garden.
"The roots keep on and on.
Thanks for your advice."
This is Delana.
Ah, so what do you think about that one, Joellen?
Yeah, the roots just go on and on and on, right?
- That's what milkweed does.
and it's got an aggressive rhizomous root system that just keeps going and going.
And yeah, and to deplete that?
That's a lot of foliage you gotta eliminate.
And you can, I mean, if you wanted to, you could cut it, otherwise, you can put some kind of herbicide on it, but [sighs] it's taking over her flower garden.
Yeah, if she did put any kind of herbicide on it, she would have to do the glove or the sponge.
- Yeah, the wipe technique.
- By wiping it just on the leaves and not getting it on anything else.
But she could just keep cutting the foliage.
If you just keep simply cutting, you don't have to pull it.
You just keep, 'cause I don't think you can with all the rhizomes, but if you could just keep cutting it, you might be, as it keeps coming out, you're gonna keep dwindling its carbohydrate reserve and it will eventually go away.
But it might take years to do that.
- It probably would [Chris laughing] take a lot of years.
- It probably would, huh?
- And you know, I'd like to know which milkweed it is because there are so many milkweeds.
You know, and it's like that, another question we had sometime back about the hollyhocks.
You know, maybe it just needs to be a hollyhock bed or a milkweed bed.
If it's the butterfly weed, if it's that one.
You know, that's the great Monarch butterfly, you know, host plant.
So, you know, I think I would, I don't know, it's a bad problem.
- Right.
- It's almost like kudzu, you know?
- Yeah, and I know in some, that's why the, this particular weedy milkweed has, you know, dwindled, because it is so aggressive.
- Yeah.
- And so there's, that makes there be less of it around on roadsides and things like that for the butterflies, but it is an aggressive weed.
- Lot of work, yeah.
- We have- - A lot of work.
- An introduced one too, you know, that I had to get it out of my garden.
I can't remember the name of it, but I bet you know, Chris.
It's the one that a lot of nurseries.
- It's a tropical one.
- Yeah, it is.
Yeah, it is.
- Okay.
- You know, and it kinda goes a little bit aggressive too, yeah.
Well, more so than I would want.
But you know, everybody has their own control issues- - Right, right.
- With things in their garden.
- Yeah.
- Right.
So yeah, that's gonna be tough.
You know, that's gonna be tough.
- Yeah, it is.
- And there are a lot of milkweeds that aren't thugs in the garden.
- Right, right.
- And those are the ones like the Asclepias that I use.
- Yeah, the butterfly weed.
- The little that works just as well.
- Yep.
- All right, Delana, yeah.
You got your work cut out for you.
Yeah, so you know, pull, pull, pull.
You know, 'cause those roots gonna keep going on and on and on.
- Yes, they will.
[gentle country music] - "Am I the only person struggling "with this stinking plant?
"This stuff grows so fast, it's a daily chore.
"I've never seen it till it killed half my backyard.
"It seems to steal all the water.
"The patches in my yard have cracks in the soil "all around where it grows.
"The green picture is the plant in infant stages.
"Once it grows slightly larger than that, "it starts growing over the top of the grass "leaving nothing behind, just dry soil.
"The purple one is out there a few days of interaction "with MSM turf.
"If I left it alone, it would eat the entire yard.
"What is this?
"What nutrients is it depleting?
"No grass will even grow easily after it's been there.
"It's almost like it kills the grass and contaminates the soil after."
And this is David.
Love the explanation, right?
So look, we thank you for the picture.
- Yes, thank you.
- Corn speedwell is what that is.
Corn speedwell.
It's a winter annual broadleaf weed, right?
- Yes.
- But guess what condition it likes to grow in.
When you have soils that are low in fertility and high in soil moisture, it's gonna love you.
It's gonna try to take over.
- So he needs to do a soil test and fertilize his yard to make sure that the grass, now, he's in Kentucky so it might be a bunch-type grass.
The fescues or the Kentucky 31s that he has.
And that's gonna be a different type of, you know, fertility that he's gonna need on those versus what we have further south as in Bermudas and zoysias.
- Yeah, and the zoysias, right.
- But a soil test and it will tell him what is lacking and what he can put down.
The only thing I'm concerned about is I don't think he's spraying it with the correct- - Right, 'cause- - Herbicide.
- Yeah, he's using MSM turf, which controls some broadleaf weeds, but it controls more grasses than weeds.
- Yeah.
- Right, so I would suggest using the three way herbicides, right?
The broadleaf weed killers, something that contains 2,4-D, MCPP, dicamba.
Read and follow the label.
It's gonna be multiple applications, right?
But that should slow down your corn speedwell.
But something else I'd like to go back to that you mentioned, I always like to talk about cultural practices first, right?
So soil tests, you're gonna fertilize according to your soil test, make sure you're watering efficiently.
But guess what the third thing is.
Make sure you're mowing at the right height.
You know, that makes a difference as well.
And something else too about corn speedwell, I'm sitting here thinking about it, can actually grow in shady conditions.
So make sure you have the right grass for the right situation.
- Oh, that's true.
- Right, so that's something else, you know, Mr. David, you know, think about as well.
- Because he says that there's some bare spots.
- Yeah, some bare spots.
- So I mean, bare spots, are those, is it under a tree?
So that it, maybe he needs to change what's growing under there because it's the wrong grass for that area.
Or is it just that he hasn't overseeded 'cause in that part of the country, they'll overseed.
You know, the ryes and the fescues and all that kind of stuff.
- Yeah.
- The Kentucky bluegrasses, you know, once or twice a year.
So is it not thick enough that it's keeping the other weeds out?
- Which, cultural practice, right?
- And this is the problem.
So you wanna put pre-emergents down to control the seeds from the weeds.
But you can't do that and seed it also.
You have to not use pre-emergents if you're gonna keep seeding grass in that area.
- Exactly right.
So if the grass, you know, if you're gonna use, you know, if you're gonna seed it, okay, we wanna make sure the seeds do come up.
But you can't use a pre-emerge.
Now, a Pre-Emerge that you can use to control corn speedwell is gonna be something like dithiopyr.
You're gonna read and follow the label.
Pendimethalin is another one that you can use.
But make sure that those, you know, seeds have germinated, they've been up for a little while before you apply a pre-emerge.
- Right.
- All right, so but you can use a pre-emerge, just make sure the seeds are up.
- The timing has got to be right.
- Timing is everything.
So pre-emerge.
- Let your seed, if you're gonna put down seed, put seeds down first, let them come up.
Then put pre-emergent down for the other weeds.
- Right, and again, dithiopyr or pendimethalin or you know, of course, the weeds are already there so you have to use a broadleaf weed herbicide.
[gentle country music] "Is there a way to get rid of morning glories permanently?
"They grow alongside of my vegetable garden "and seem to smother it out as the summer goes on.
Thanks."
This is Chrissy from southwestern Pennsylvania.
So what do you think about that, Doc?
Permanently.
- Permanently.
- Morning glories are tough.
- Yeah, I don't know.
- But if you try to get them permanently.
- Permanently, I don't know.
You know, she just has to keep, and she's exactly right, this time of year, they're twining around everything and you have to follow the vine back and find, you know, I'm just go through and hand-pull them up.
- Right.
- But you definitely wanna do that before they set their seed.
- Right.
- You know, and they have a pretty extensive root system so sometimes you can't get all the roots.
And I think they can come up from the roots.
- And they're perennial, yeah.
- Yeah.
So they're tenacious and they are hard to control.
- They're hard.
- And you know, pre-emerge, you know, in the areas that you can put a pre-emerge if you're not relying on germination of other plants.
- That's a good point.
- 'Cause that's gonna affect that as well.
- That's for sure.
- She just needs to be tenacious about it herself and just stay after 'em.
- Yeah, it's gonna be tough, Joellen.
And especially 'cause it's growing alongside a vegetable garden, so you don't wanna use, you know- - Yeah, I was thinking you could- - Herbicides.
- Spray something on it, but I thought well, it's by the vegetable garden.
She doesn't want to spray that on it.
- Yeah.
- I mean, can you get a, I mean, is a weed eater out there and mow them down?
- I thought a tractor with a bush hog, how big it is.
- Yeah, how big it is.
- Yeah, just keep them cut down.
- Mow over them.
- Yeah, I thought it too.
- Try to cut as much of it as you can.
I mean, even if you went out, I mean, I don't know how large this is.
But if it's only a 30 foot wide or a 20 foot wide garden or even 10 foot, I mean, you could go along there with hand clippers and just cut them all off.
- Right.
- So they won't set seed anyway.
- Right, or could you wipe?
Could you grab some of those and use the wipe technique with a glove?
- You could.
Or the sponge technique.
- Depending on the area.
- Yeah, depending on the area.
- Yeah.
- I wonder if you could do that as well to kind slow it down, but yeah.
- It would slow it down, yes.
- Yeah, morning glories are tough.
- You know, there's a lot of carbohydrates for that, with that in the system.
Especially if it's been an ongoing problem for her and she's just gonna have to keep at it.
And she might try the wipe technique with the glyphosates.
- Right.
- And the more you can get rid of, the less that comes up the, you know, you just gotta keep at it year after year.
And it's gonna take several years.
- Yeah, in my vegetable garden- - Okay.
- Once I get things germinated, like my beans and squash, that's when I go back and put some kind of pre-emergent.
Get the garden all clean, get what you want germinated and then put that out there and that will slow it down from germinating with seed.
If it's roots there, it's not gonna impact that at all.
But she might look at that next year when she plants her vegetable garden.
Let everything get germinated and then I always come back in with some product like Preen.
- Preen.
That's good.
- Yeah, and it works pretty good.
[gentle country music] - "Can you kill black locust plants with a hack and spray technique?"
This is Karen on YouTube.
So the old black locust, like- - Well, there's some- - which has gotta be invasive.
- There's some nice black locust varieties, but there's a lot of them that are definitely weed trees and need to be gotten rid of.
- Yes.
- And yeah, he can do that.
But [laughs] that's Yeah, it's gonna take a while 'cause it depends on how big the trees are too.
- Yeah, see, that's what I was gonna mention.
Yeah, it depends on the size of the tree.
I mean, if you can get them when they're - Really small, inch to two inches would be best.
But or even smaller.
- Or smaller.
Right, I mean, those can be dug up pretty easily.
- Yeah, that could be dug up.
- Yeah, if they're bigger than that then yeah, you're gonna have to do the old hack or cut and then you're gonna have to paint, you know, that surface area, the stump of course with, you know, a product that contains something like glyphosate or triclopyr is what you're gonna have to do.
- Yes.
- And then just hope that works for you, but yes.
- And it may stand up 'cause you know, the root system may say, oh, well, this one has decided to not live because of what you've done to it.
So, but the other roots will say, "Oh hey, we can come up here".
So it's gonna be, yeah, it's gonna take some time.
- Yeah, you gotta be persistent with that.
But yeah, the smaller, the better, right?
- The smaller, the better.
- 'Cause that way you can, yeah.
You can just try to dig them out, pull them up.
But yeah, that root system's gonna be key 'cause it'll resprout.
- Yeah.
- Right.
But yeah, the hack and spray technique will work.
- Will work, it's just gonna take some time.
- It's just gonna take some time.
- And it's gonna regenerate and you'll say "It's been a month and I thought I had it all".
And then something else will come up.
But just get it right away.
- Right.
And then, you know, with those two products, you know, if there is a big, you know, black locust, you can do foliar applications.
I mean, that's still gonna take some time.
- It's still gonna take time.
- Right, with the triclopyr, the glyphosate, or anything that contains glyphosate.
Foliar application, but it's still gonna take a little bit more time, you know, for it to, you know, translocate down into the root system.
- Right.
- You know, so either way you go.
- Either way, it's gonna take some time.
- Either way, it's gonna take a little bit.
Yeah, be persistent, Karen.
[gentle country music] "What would be your recommended weed and feed "for a St. Augustine lawn?
Thanks for your help."
This is Ron from New Orleans, right, it would have St. Augustine grass.
- New Orleans, that's right.
- Yeah, New Orleans, right?
- Mm-hm, yep.
- Yeah, so what do you think about that one?
- Well, I spent 12 years in Mobile.
- I was about to say, you're down - It's on about the same latitude as St. Augustine and you know, weed and feed is, they're good products and you know, you put them out there, it's one application, it's simple.
- It's simple.
- But it's my experience with St. Augustine, centipede lawns, and most lawns that you need to control weeds when you need to control weeds.
- Man, that's exactly right.
- You need to apply fertilizer when you need to apply fertilizer.
And one thing you don't wanna do on a St. Augustine lawn is put a weed and feed out in the fall.
You know, because you're fertilizing that lawn in the fall and you can get a flush of new growth and you get that first killing frost and you kill your, you can kill your, or damage your St. Augustine.
- Very sensitive to cold weather.
- So, you know, I would say use the herbicide that you need to use to control the weeds that you need to use at the right time.
And then you can apply herbicides in the fall and you can apply herbicides in the spring.
You can apply herbicide in the summertime, you know?
You know, Atrazine is probably, it was, I noticed it back when I was down in Mobile in the '90s, '80s and '90s, it was the number one herbicide.
And even now, it's still one of the best herbicides.
It kills 32, 35 broadleaf weeds in St. Augustine lawns.
But, and you can put it out, you know, it's a pre-emergent, you know, you can put it out in the fall, but put the fertilizer out when you need to fertilize and the herbicide when you need, now, that's my opinion.
- No, that's mine too as well.
So my thing is this, so yeah, I would go to my local Extension Office.
Make sure you get the soil tested.
Fertilize according to your soil test.
- Exactly.
- Right, is what I would do.
Okay?
And then, yeah, control the weeds when they need to be controlled.
I would use a pre-emerge.
You just talked about one.
Pendimethalin is another one that you can use in St. Augustine Grass.
I would use that.
- That's right.
- Read and follow the label.
- Exactly.
- And then, of course, your cultural practices.
Make sure, okay, yeah, you fertilize according to the soil test, watering appropriately, right?
- Right.
- Mowing at the right height.
- That's right.
All of it.
- 'Cause if you do that, it'll crowd out those weeds, Mr. Ron.
- It's all part of the picture.
- It's all part of the picture.
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That's all we have time for today.
Thanks for sending in the questions.
Hopefully, we gave you some information that will help you keep the weeds a little more under control in your garden.
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Thanks for watching.
I'm Chris Cooper.
Be sure to join us next week for The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South.
Be safe.
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