- Hi, thanks for joining us for The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South, I'm Chris Cooper.

Is your houseplant getting a little big for that pot?

Today we're going to show you how to re-pot houseplants.

Also, summer's here and if it does not rain enough, you might need to water your lawn.

Today we're going to talk about wh en and how much to water.

That's just ahead on The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South.

- (female announcer) Production funding for The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South is provided by the WKNO Production Fund, the WKNO Endowment Fund and by viewers like you, thank you.

[upbeat country music] - Welcome to The Family Plot.

I'm Chris Cooper.

Joining me today is Rick Pudwell.

Rick is the Director of Horticulture at the Memphis Botanic Garden.

And Booker T. Leigh is here.

Booker's a UT Extension Agent right here in Shelby County.

Thanks for joining us.

- Glad to be here.

- You're welcome.

- Alright Mr. Rick, we have some houseplants that need to be re-potted.

- Yes sir.

- Can you help us out please sir?

- Oh I think I can and I've been told that they have resided in this very building for seven years since they were-- - They've been here for a while.

- In the very same pot.

So that's a testament to the person that cared for them that kept them alive that long.

- (Chris) They've been here for a while that's for sure.

- I would say that's great.

This is a Sansevieria.

A lot of you know this as a Mother-in-law tongue.

And this is a plant that is very easy to care for and they like to dry out between waterings.

I'm kinda removing some of these old leaves.

Let's see what the roots look like.

- (Chris) Eh not bad.

- (Booker) Not bad, yeah.

- Kinda tight.

One thing I like to do, especially if the plant's been in a container for a long time, is kinda tease out some of the roots on the edge.

You see the roots are pretty much all on the outside of the- - (Chris) Right.

- The ball.

And we had selected a pot.

Where's the little one?

There we go.

And this has a drainage hole in it, which it should.

- Okay.

- And I'm gonna put a piece of broken clay pot, when you break your clay pots don't throw them away.

They're porous and that's good to cover the drainage hole in the bottom and a lot of times if the plant's been in a clay pot for a long time, you'll find that the roots have kind of, grown around that.

Kind of cling to that.

It's porous but it will keep the soil from washing out.

- (Chris) Okay.

- So these plants usually have a rhizome that grows across but it couldn't do that because it was kind of restricted.

So I think you'll see that it'll get larger.

The soil that you want to use is a commercial mix.

We buy Fafard Mix at the Garden and then we add other things to it.

A little bit of pine bark, a little mycorrhizae, little fertilizer.

And you always wanna pot the plant about the same depth as what it was growing.

This is probably about almost two inches larger than this plant.

Because it's been in a small pot for so long, I think it needs it.

The other things is, you wanna pack the soil but not too hard.

- Okay, yeah I was gonna ask you about that.

I see you packing it in pretty good.

- (Rick) So that it'll stay and then you also want to leave enough room that you can water it.

Because if you don't, obviously the water's going to run over the edge of the pot.

- (Chris) Okay.

- So that's pretty much what we need to do.

I'm a little worried about this being slightly tippy (Chris laughs) because the root system's so small but I think it'll be okay.

Alright, and then the other thing is when you water it, it's always good to have a saucer underneath.

Now this particular plant likes to dry between waterings so my recommendation would be, water it until it runs through in the saucer.

If it doesn't reabsorb the water out of the saucer in an hour, dump it.

- Dump it, okay.

- Because that's the same effect as if water was over the top of the pot.

- (Chris) Okay, gotcha.

- This other plant is a Croton and it looks like it's kinda leans toward the light.

- It's leaning, yeah.

- And I'm amazed it has survived with this tin foil on the pot, but it has.

And it's, oh boy.

- (Booker) Still got water in it?

- It's been well watered.

- Well watered, you see that?

- Okay.

That's not a good idea.

- Not good huh?

- No, but it's lived.

Okay, these roots are not in as good of shape.

But let's just kinda tease it out just a little bit.

I think instead of using that big pot, we're gonna use the little smaller one just because.

- (Chris) You have this one, you have another one here.

- Let's do this one.

I'm just afraid that it's gonna be too large a volume of soil in that one.

- And Rick, while you have that plant up there, we're looking for nice, white, fibrous roots right?

'Cause we always talk about that.

- You're right, and you're not seeing them because a lot of them have unfortunately rotted away because it has stood in water.

That's why you dump the saucer.

- That's why you dump it, okay.

- Okay, now this plant is also kind of has an interesting shape.

- (Booker) It's like it's leanin' huh?

- Because it kinda leaned toward the light.

So we're gonna kinda see what we can do with that.

I'm gonna put a little soil on the back side.

And I'm not centering it exactly because of the, it's kind of a Bonsai effect I guess.

- (Chris) Oh okay, that makes sense.

- (Rick) And we have a little bamboo stake here which I'm gonna try to tease through there and hopefully - (Booker) Hold it up huh?

- That will support it.

- Support it okay.

- Yeah, that works.

- (Booker) That looks nice.

- (Chris) I think that works.

These plants are already happier.

[laughs] - Yeah.

So you know, that's basically the technique.

You know, if the plant was really large, you'd had to divide it of course, that would be different.

Then put a saucer under it.

I'm gonna just give 'em a little bit of water now, just to show you.

The other thing, when you water your houseplants, it's a good idea to use lukewarm water instead of ice cold.

Most of the plants that make good houseplants are plants from the tropics and the cold water is kind of a shock to them 'cause they're used to warmer temperatures.

And a couple other tips on keeping plants healthy in the house.

I recommend getting just an ordinary atomizer bottle and spritzing them lightly in the morning.

That'll increase the humidity 'cause your air's always dry with heat or air conditioning.

- Okay.

- And then use a liquid fertilizer particularly from March through October, about half the strength they recommend on the package because of the fact that they want to sell you another package and they don't need that much.

But about half what they recommend.

And you know, that's your basic houseplant here.

- What about light requirements?

- Okay, that's good that you asked.

Something like this Croton really should have bright red and yellow leaves and that's from lack of sunlight.

Also the leaves are kinda big because they've grown larger because they're in lower light.

So that should be in a sunny window.

If that were acclimated, that could be out in the hot sun outside.

It's actually a good bedding plant in the summer.

Sansevierias will take almost full sun but in the house it would be hard to give it too much light.

Outdoors it would need maybe some afternoon shade.

- Okay.

- Both of them are tropical and tropical plants make the best houseplants because they don't need to rest through the winter.

If you brought something in from the garden like an herbaceous plant, it would probably die in the spring after it tried to winter, because it didn't have the cold temperatures.

- (Chris) Okay that makes sense.

- So plants from tropical countries make your best houseplants.

- Okay, let me ask you another question.

Any pest problems we need to know about?

- Oh yes, I'm amazed that these are very clean.

[laughs] Scale is a common problem especially on Sansevierias.

The white fly can be another one, mealy bug.

- (Chris) Ri ght, I'm familiar with those.

- Keeping the plants clean is part of the battle.

If you'll rinse them off occasionally, put them in the sink with the little hose attachment and rinse them off, or in the shower if it's a big tree or something.

That helps a great deal.

And then, most of the insecticides you use outside, are a little bit strong for use indoors.

So if you do wanna spray your houseplants, I'd recommend either doing it in the summer or on a nice day in the winter where you can put 'em in the garage and do it, when the temperature's appropriate so that you don't have that in the house.

- (Chris) Okay.

- A lot of the systemic pesticides are very appropriate for houseplants because it's less of a pollution problem in the air in the house.

- (Chris) Sure, Okay.

- And if you're using a clay pot, I didn't water it enough, but always be sure that that pot has soaked up 'til it's dark color, you feel moisture on the outside.

Because it'll draw moisture from the soil if you don't.

- Okay, and one last question.

Humidity?

You know we always get that question asked a lot too.

- Right.

Most, again, most of the plants that adapt to being good houseplants are tolerant of a range of temperatures, but the higher humidity the better they do.

We like dry air.

Again, the atomizer bottle in the morning, unless you have an ungodly number of plants, and I have a lot, but it doesn't take me more than 10 minutes to just go through the house and lightly spritz them.

Especially when the heats on or the air conditioning.

Makes a huge difference.

You know how some plants will get brown tips on the leaves?

That will usually eliminate that because you just get a little extra humidity for those little short time during the day.

Always do it in the morning so they go to bed dry at night.

- (Chris) Okay.

- Okay?

- (Chris) Makes sense.

Alright, Mr. Rick, we appreciate that.

- You're very welcome.

- Thank you much, good information too.

- You're welcome.

- Thank you much.

[upbeat country music] Frost date, hard freeze.

- Yep, that can get kinda confusing because in the fall when we get our first frost, that usually is referring to when the temperature is at least 32 degrees and that there is water vapor that condenses on foliage as the heat radiates from the ground.

Usually happens on a clear night when the heat radiates back up from the ground and water vapor condenses on grass or foliage of plants or whatever.

And the temperature's 32 degrees, then ice crystals form.

That's frost.

It can be a light frost and do very little damage.

So, when we talk about though a hard freeze, that is definitely going to do some damage to plants.

And, the damage depends on the hardiness of the plant and the length of time that that temperature stays that low.

And when we have a hard freeze, it's usually at least 25 degrees.

Thirty-two down to twenty-five, you get even below that you're really gonna get some really tissue damage.

But, that's the difference in a frost, which is the water vapor-- You can have a hard freeze and no frost.

It can just be a dry freeze and everything justs gets dessicated from that hard-- And it can be, and the length of time that temperature stays at that level is definitely important as well.

The longer it stays very low like that, down in the 20s, the more plant damage you're going to see.

[upbeat country music] Alright Booker, and Rick you know Booker's our lawn guy here.

- I think for a few years.

- A long time ago, we go way back.

- Yeah that's for sure.

- Yeah way back.

- So let's talk a little bit about summer lawn watering.

- That's very good, we need that.

- And we actually have some questions for you today.

- Okay.

- And we'll start with the first one.

"When is the best time to water your lawn?"

- Well the ideal time and the best time, probably early in the morning time.

A lot of folks go out in the early morning time and water they lawn.

Probably some time around three or four, or five o'clock in the morning, or early like six or seven.

You go out there and put your water hose down where you want to water it.

And then early that morning you get 'em cut it on while you go walkin' or joggin' or something.

And then you make sure that you have half where you wanna get all your other plants too now.

Because a lot of times when you get into our flower bed, and that can cause problems.

But early in the morning time is ideal time to water your lawn.

- Okay, so what happens if you water too late though?

- A lot of times you water too late, it don't have time to dry off.

And a lot of time we have diseases get on our lawn.

People wonder why there's diseases on my lawn?

They probably water in the, late in the evening time or they water in the middle of the daytime and a lot of time in the middle of the day a lot of that water not gettin' down to the plant.

So you need to, early morning to an ideal time because you get more water to the lawn.

- Okay, alright, here's a common question.

"How much water does your lawn need at any given time?"

- Well most times you need about one inch of water a week.

- Okay, one inch a week?

- One inch a week.

You wanna make sure you givin' it all at one time.

A lot of times I see folks go out there in the morning time, or the evening time and get a little water hose and just start doing it for about 5 or 10 minutes.

And that really doing your lawn more harm than anything else, 'cause you want that water to soak down into the soil, probably about one inch.

One inch of good watering a week.

Now you have sandy soil, it might need a little more than that 'cause the sandy soil might drain a little faster and it cause it to dry faster.

So you've mostly got clay soil here and you're gonna hold that moisture long time in there so by one inch of water we should be good.

- Okay, does it matter whether it's a warm-season grass or a cool-season grass?

Like whether it's Bermuda, zoysia or a fescue?

- Mostly times when we're watering our grass, mostly the warm-season grass.

'Cause a lot of time your cool-season grass, they get enough water, but under a shade tree or something, in the summertime, you might wanna give it a little more water.

It not doin' a whole lot of growth during that but it's staying still under that shade tree, the roots are pullin' that water away from your lawn, and you give a little more water during the summertime when it real hot.

But in the wintertime, you don't need to water your cool-season grass a whole lot.

- Okay, alright here's our next question.

"So what happens if your lawn gets too much water?"

- The two things that happen if you get too much water, one of the things that you can cause disease problems to get on there.

And by an inch of water a week and sometimes if you got a sprinkler system and it come on, it should have a water gauge on there.

Because if it rain, you don't want it to come on.

So some people have it set anyway, if it rain it still come on.

That can give that lawn too much water.

And also givin' it too much water, you want those root systems sometimes to just kinda get gradual kinda dormant dry.

It force them roots down into the ground.

If not, you keep gettin' all that water all time, they stand really close to the top if they got a lot of moisture right there.

But sometimes you let it go dry for a while and force those roots to go down into the ground.

And do that, and so.

- So the deeper the roots go, for the most part.

- The tougher your grass gonna be.

- Right.

- See I don't water my grass.

I used to water my lawn but I let it, nice, well established.

And now durin' the summertime, those roots goin' down into the ground, lookin' for water.

That's why you don't wanna shallow water your grass, for 'bout two or three minutes.

The roots gonna come to the top of the soil and the soil, and the heat can kill that grass.

I've seen neighbors out there waterin' their lawn early in the, like that, and the next thing I know, that they begin to turn brown.

Because shallow roots, hot sun, scorch their roots up.

- You got that Rick?

- Makes sense.

- Alright, so here's our next question for you.

"How can I tell if my lawn has one inch of water on it?"

- We get that call all the time.

How can I tell I've only got one inch of water there?

A lot tell ya, look, they have a can, the thing you put out there on your lawn and the sprinkler system.

And put them probably about both sides of it, depending on what sprinklers you have.

And get you a timer to put on there.

And watch it for the first time to see how long, and mark that can, mark an inch on that can.

And mark that can, when you get an inch of water in there, you would know then, get an inch.

Then you know how long it took for you to get that inch.

If it took 30 minutes or a hour or whatever.

'Cause some sprinklers put out more water than other sprinklers.

So it all depend on the kinda sprinkler you have, how long it take to get that one inch of water in there.

But yeah, you get you some cans to put out there, whatever water gauge or whatever, try to measure that one inch of water in there.

- Okay, what about using a moisture meter?

- A lotta people do that.

That'd be good to tell when your lawn do need watering.

So you wanna do that check that in there.

So, yeah, that'd be really good.

'Cause you don't wanna just go out there and water at times, like I said a few minutes ago, make sure you have your sprinkler system set from your flower bed.

'Cause a lot of time we see a lot of flower beds dead because they're gettin' too much water.

They got a lotta mulch in the flower bed, holdin' a lot of moisture in there.

And they begin to rot those plants out.

- Okay, and then one of the points that you made earlier, and Rick, you probably can attest to this as well, yeah, make sure you have a rain sensor.

- (Booker) Oh Yeah.

- On your irrigation system because we've all seen 'em, right?

- Irrigation's runnin' in the rainstorm.

- Come on folks.

- I done seen it rain, and their lawn beginnin' to get water.

- Uh huh.

- And that's not good.

- Yeah, it's not good.

It's gonna be too much water.

So you talked about some of the sprinklers that're out there.

What are some of the better kinds though?

The oscillating kind, or... - It all depend how much lawn you have.

A lot of times, the lawn not made even.

And a lot of time, you wanna use the kind that'll fit in your lawn.

But you don't wanna get the water out on the sidewalk, and the water all out on your house and everything.

You want the one that fit into your lawn.

But the oscillating kind is real good if you're gonna put some new seeds down because it won't wash the seeds away.

It won't pack 'em down into the soil.

So when they goin' over and over again, oscillatin' kind, that'd be really good for the new seeds and have new sod you put down in there.

That be the best kind to use.

But try to watch your lawn, try to put the sprinkler somewhere that the water's gettin' onto the grass.

You don't wanna water the sidewalk and all that down there, you done wastin' water and also wastin' money and time.

- And if you do have an irrigation system, you need to test it right to make sure it's puttin' out enough water - Yeah.

Most people have an irrigation system, they have it on a certain zone.

You might have one zone come on at a certain time of the year, or certain time of the day, and some the other time.

Probably you got under a shade tree that might be a zone you might have it come on for 15, 20 minutes.

Or out in the heat in hot sun, it might come on longer to get that one inch of water in there.

So you wanna be sure you get an inch of water in there.

And you don't need to come on every day.

'Cause sometimes, test your soil to make sure it need water before you do that.

Sometimes an inch of water might not be an inch of water for that week 'cause you know you have some rain in there, and all that, you might get that through rain water.

So test that in there.

Test your sprinkler system in there and have it come on and what zone that you have it come on at a certain time.

- Okay, so another question for you.

"How often do I need to water a newly sodded or seeded lawn?"

- One of the thing about that, now that's a little mistake in there.

If we have, I like to, if it's really hot in the summertime, I like to, if we're puttin' sod down, I don't like to put that sod down on a really dry, hot soil.

I might wanna water it just a day or two before just to water the soil, get it kinda moist-like, and then lay my sod, and keep it real moist until it begins to catch root.

If you go out there and catch that sod and pull on it a little bit, and see how it begin to catch root in there, you know then it done caught root.

And also for the seeds in your lawn, you need to make sure that you keep your moisture until you start germinatin'.

Now you don't wanna keep that wet, wet, wet, but a lot of time you just wanna keep it kinda moist, like early in the mornin' time.

Keep it kinda moist until those seeds germinate.

And on a bag of seed, it'll tell you how many days it should take for that seed to germinate.

Bermuda grass seed might take 7 to 10 days.

Your zoysia grass and all different seeds take a little longer, but just know how long it should take for that seed to germinate.

Because you can get some old seeds, put 'em in and they just sittin' there, you wonder why these seeds not germinating.

And another thing, is when do you plant those seeds?

You know, a lot of time, you need to know when to plant those seeds, but Bermuda grass seed, zoysia seed, in May, probably the middle of May.

When the soil temperature get around 70 degrees, not the air temperature, but the soil temperature get around in there, so then.

But keep that soil moist, not over watered.

Keep it moist, until it begin to germinate.

- 'Cause for the most part, seeds start to germinate when they take in water.

- Correct.

- Keep 'em moist.

- They grow some roots and things like that.

- Get moisture in there.

- Alright, well we really appreciate that information.

- Well thank you.

- From our lawn guy here!

[laughs] - It's great.

- Alright, thank you much.

[gentle country music] - Well, the garden has been in the ground for several years.

We're seeing some nutrient deficiencies in the plants.

So, it's time to take a soil sample and to find out what's going on the soil.

To do that, you can use something like this, a soil probe, which you simply stick in the ground and it gives you soil here and you can take it and put in the bucket.

Or, you can take this trowel, like most people have, and you can dig in the ground.

The best place to get the soil sample is about six inches down.

So, we'll dig in here and get a small sample in this area.

And when you soil sample, you go to different places in your garden, and put it in the bucket.

Now we've got all of our samples, and we're gonna get out all of the organic matter, because we don't need that in the soil sample.

And then we mix all of these samples together.

Mostly you need about one cup of soil.

So, we'll let this dry and mix it up again, and then we'll send it off to our local soil lab to find the analysis of what we need.

[upbeat country music] - Alright, here's our Q & A session.

And Rick you jump in and help us out okay?

- Alright, I'll do it.

- Alright, here's our first viewer email, comes from YouTube.

"What happens if I use two or three different fungicides at the same time?"

And this is from Abdul, again, YouTube.

- So Booker you want first crack at that one?

- You don't wanna mix anything together, 'cause could cause a reaction to some plant or whatever you have.

It might not, one of 'em might not begin to work good.

So I probably would wait some time on it before I use two different fungicides or herbicides at the same time on there.

- I would agree.

You might want to alternate the use because different resistance or whatever.

But I wouldn't use two together either.

- I wouldn't use two or three together either, Abdul.

And my reason is this, it's a waste of money.

'Cause if you use two or three, what if they're in the same class or have the same mode of action?

Then you're just wastin' money.

You're wastin' product.

And then, that could also be phytotoxicity.

- (Rick) Yeah, correct.

- So, I wouldn't use any more than one.

- Follow the directions.

- Follow the directions.

- That's why they're on there.

- Read that label on there, I know some of your bigger chemical companies, are now introducing more chemistries into some of their products.

But, as a homeowner... - (Booker) I'd just use one.

- Just one Abdul.

- And read the label Abdul.

- That's right, read the label on that.

Hope that answers your question.

Alright, here's our next viewer email.

"I recently moved into a high rise "with a 24 by 5 foot balcony.

"What can I do to grow tomatoes and other veggies on a north-facing balcony?"

And this is from Don.

So, Mister Rick, whoo... - Sounds windy.

[laughs] - It has been windy.

- Okay, I guess I would definitely cage them or trellis them.

You're gonna get early morning and late afternoon sun on the north side.

So it'd be worth a try.

I don't think that production will be as good as full sun, but possibly cherry tomatoes because they're a little tougher.

But I'd definitely use large containers 'cause they're gonna dry out fast up there.

And check the watering daily.

- Anything you'd like to add to that?

- That's probably good.

'Cause like Rick said, they dry out fast in the container.

And also, one thing about the container you can move it around a little bit and turn it around to different locations there, when they're in containers.

- Pick out the best spot.

- Pick out the best spot for them.

You can't grow a lot but probably tomatoes and peppers, but they're probably the only two good things that you can grow good on that there.

- Right, you know, we recently talked about hydroponic systems.

- I think hydroponic, we've messed with that at the garden some.

And we've found that really and truly, even in a greenhouse, that whole greenhouse has to be devoted to hydroponics.

If you try to grow plants in soil in the same greenhouse space, it's not as efficient for whatever reason.

We found it just didn't work as well.

- (Chris) Interesting.

- So, outdoors, I don't know.

I have my doubts.

- (Chris) Okay.

- I know some people do those towers with the herbs and stuff but I question how effective that is.

- Interesting, yeah I seen those towers all over town now.

Alright, so Mr. Don, I hope that answers your question.

You have a couple of options, alright.

So here's our next viewer email.

"I have grass growing in my vegetable garden, what kind is it?"

And this is from Charles in Arlington.

As you can see there, on the screen, nutsedge.

- (Booker) Nutsedge.

- What do you think about nutsedge?

- In a vegetable garden, I don't recommend a whole lot of chemicals in a vegetable garden.

It might interfere with the plants, the vegetables you have in there.

If you can just go, and you have two hours, go out and pull it out there.

If you can.

- (Chris) That nutsedge is gonna be tough.

- Yeah, it'll be tough, now.

Well then maybe you could get chemical, something like that just gets right on the plant or something.

Like some RoundUp or something.

Just touch that on that, it might help some.

But you don't wanna get it around your plant though.

- I think during the growing season, I would smother it with some cardboard or something.

- That's my point yeah.

- And then when the plants are harvested, then attack it with Image or Manage or whatever you're gonna use.

- That's right, that's right.

- That would be my take anyways.

- That would be my take as well.

- I think it's not best for gardening like this though.

- Not if you're gonna eat the plant.

- Yeah, anything that's edible for the most part, I don't like sprayin' things.

- Makes me nervous.

- Right, I mean, of course there are some chemicals that you can spray in a vegetable garden.

They're actually labeled for vegetable gardens.

Basagran is one, Halosulfuron is another one.

But I like to smother 'em.

- (Booker) Yeah smother 'em.

- But you know how tough nutgrass is.

I mean, it's an indicator of a lot of moisture.

- (Rick) Yes, it is.

- (Chris) So, watch your irrigating.

- And they might want to build that soil up so the level of that garden's a little higher than the surrounding area.

Add some amendments to it to bulk it up.

- Mr. Charles, I hope that helps you out there.

Alright, here's our next viewer email.

"I have four pampas grass plants "and they have done well blooming.

"I did not cut them back during the fall "and now they look like they are dying.

"Should I cut pampas grass back every fall?

What do I do to save them?"

And this is Ms. Elizabeth.

And Ms. Elizabeth, we just happen to have Rick here who can answer that question.

- Well, that's a a difficult question.

Pampas grass is an evergreen grass.

It does not normally die back unless we have a very severe winter.

So, and it's kind of a sawtooth edge blade, which is not pleasant to work with.

But what I would have done, probably back in March before the new growth came out, is wear gloves and get in there with the shears and cut out the dead leaves and leave the green ones.

Now there's probably enough new growth that it would be almost impossible to do.

I would give it a shot of fertilizer and keep my fingers crossed and hope for the best.

Surely there's some growth there.

If it's not by now, it's toast.

- Wow, okay, yeah she said, now they look like they're dying.

- So not good.

- I like that information.

I just put one out too at home, the Pampas Grass.

- It is an evergreen grass, I've seen people kill it by cutting it to the ground.

- (Chris) I've seen that as well.

- And then there's not enough for photosynthesis, for it to get restarted.

- So, fertilize it and see what happens?

- That's what I would do.

- Alright Ms. Elizabeth, you heard it from Mr. Rick himself.

So, do wear gloves, 'cause you're right.

- Oh, it'll cut you up.

- It will cut ya.

Yeah, I've been cut by it before, so it will do that.

Alright, so Mr. Rick, Booker, we're outta time.

Thanks for bein' here today.

- Alright thank you.

- Remember, we love to hear from you.

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Thanks for watching, I'm Chris Cooper.

Be sure to join us next week for The Family Plot: Gardening in the Mid-South.

Be safe.

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