>> TOM: This week on Classic Woodworking, we're making a round side table with my good friend Terry Moore.

This table features a mix of walnut veneer and solid wood.

The highlights are a dramatic sunburst top with maple accents, a solid walnut contemporary base, cross lap joinery feet, and an Art Deco inspired column.

It's all coming up next right here on Classic Woodworking.

♪ ♪ >> Funding is provided by... >> Woodworking is a passion.

Woodcraft understands that.

We offer name brands and tools for fine woodworking.

Woodcraft, proud sponsors of Classic Woodworking.

And by Felder.

>> It's not only about work.

It's about fun and success.

We are with you.

Felder Group is your partner for your woodworking projects.

♪ ♪ >> And by SCM-- a rich heritage of woodworking technology since 1952.

>> TOM: Hi, I'm Tom McLaughlin, and I'm here with my good friend Terry Moore, fellow New Hampshire woodworker.

How are you doing, Terry?

>> Good, good to be here.

>> TOM: Good to have you here.

Now, I don't want to embarrass you, Terry, but your work has been collected by a museum, you're the founding member of the New Hampshire Furniture Masters Association, and you were also on the cover of Fine Woodworking magazine.

A few years ago.

>> Oh, my, look at that.

>> TOM: Is that really you?

>> It's lost youth, yes.

But it's really me-- look at that head of hair.

>> TOM: (laughing) Every furniture maker has their distinctive style.

How would you describe yours?

>> I think it's influenced a little bit by French Art Deco, turn of the century, early 1900s, and mixed in with that is a 1920s English furniture maker by the name of Edward Barnsley.

But I'm self taught, so I kind of mix and match, and what comes out is uniquely me, I guess.

>> TOM: Our project today incorporates elements of Terry's design style and specialty.

And we'll begin with the sunburst top.

So we're ready to make our top, and we've got our eight layers of veneer.

And to give you the big picture, it's really eight pie pieces cut and shaped and then glued down onto a substrate.

Now, we need a stable substrate, so this doesn't move over time, and we need to cut it into a round.

So how do you do that, Terry?

>> Well, the easiest way, Tom, is to start with a slightly oversized square piece.

And then draw lines from corner to corner, which gives you the center point, which I can now use as a trammel point with a modified router jig.

I can put this screw in my trammel point, right into that center hole that I drilled, and then the router will move around the MDF and cut a perfect circle.

>> TOM: That's pretty sweet.

>> Now I can see my circle, and I can take a jigsaw and cut out the bulk of the waste on each corner.

♪ ♪ Turn the router on, and plunge, and continue to do section by section until that whole edge is squared up and clean.

>> TOM: Now, you have a numbering system for the pieces of veneer that you have to put onto this.

>> Yes-- it's typical that we lose the pattern when we get... when we go from number one through number eight.

So if I went one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, number one would be right next to number eight, and the pattern would be too far apart.

So I'm going to be book matching, or mirror imaging, these pieces.

So I will start with a number one, and I'm going to circle that.

And that corresponds to the veneer.

There's a circle on the face.

There's not a circle on the back.

So if you flip that piece over, it's marked with the number one, but it doesn't have a circle on it.

So that tells me which is the face.

Then I'm going to go number two, number three, number four, number five-- and these are circled-- number six, number seven, and finally number eight, that one's circled.

That is the order in which I'm going to cut the veneer pie pieces.

And then as long as I pay attention to the circle or not circled number, that tells me which face becomes a mirror image of the corresponding next piece.

>> TOM: How do you decide where you want to take your match for the whole tabletop?

>> There's a neat little trick.

This is just a pair of mirrors taped together on one edge.

And if we place this on the leaf of veneer, and then using that pie-shaped template, if you'll look into the mirror, you'll see the whole tabletop composed.

That's going to be the finished product.

>> TOM: So we've got our ten sheets of veneer, a couple extra in case we make a mistake, and we're now going to lay out our pie pieces and start cutting.

♪ ♪ So now I've cut seven of the eight pie-shaped pieces.

I'm ready to tape them together.

♪ ♪ >> TOM: So the top is all taped up.

What do you think, Terry?

>> Well, it looks a little messy right now, but if I were to turn this over to the underside, there you can see the joint looks nice.

I'm going to find the center of this and make a mark there, and that's going to prepare us for gluing up later.

>> TOM: And for the back, we have just a simple, straight joint.

And took two pieces of veneer and book matched them.

So we've just got to cut this to shape, and we'll be ready to glue it up.

♪ ♪ >> We're ready to make this a tabletop.

>> TOM: We've got that piece cut to a beautiful circle.

Now when we glue it up, we'll put the tape side out, apply our top sunburst part.

>> We don't want to move that from the center.

So here we go, upside down.

We can distribute the glue, roll the glue for the... >> TOM: Nice.

>> ...the underside of the table.

We'll make a sandwich, glue it all up, put it in the vacuum press.

>> TOM: Perfect.

(motor running) I'll make sure everything's staying centered.

Make sure it's nice and spread.

We'll give it an hour or two, and we'll be ready to trim our top Our top is perfect-- no bubbles.

>> Thank god.

>> TOM: Yeah.

Now it's time for us to get the tape off.

So how do we do that, Terry?

>> I think the easiest way is to gently warm it with a clothes iron.

>> TOM: All right.

>> And then that releases the adhesive on the back side of the tape.

And it helps removal without ripping up any grains.

>> TOM: The seams look great.

>> Yeah, I'm happy.

>> TOM: We're ready to trim the edge with a trim router and a flush cutting bit.

And we'll go right on around, then we'll be ready to put on our edge veneer.

(whirring) ♪ ♪ So we've got our veneer on the top and the bottom, but we've got to do something to cover this edge.

So to do that, we're going to use this strip of walnut veneer.

And we propped up our top on this can.

And we've done that because you've got a pretty cool technique for gluing on this veneer.

>> Yeah, actually, if you use just regular yellow wood glue, and you coat both surfaces and a nice even light coat on the edge of the MDF, and then also we'll put it on the edge of the veneer.

And we'll set that aside and let that dry to the touch.

>> TOM: So it's been about 20 minutes.

The edge glue is dry to the touch.

We're going to get it into the vice and work some iron magic.

>> All right.

We're going to do about 12 inches at a time, and then I'm going to file it as I go along.

So what the hot iron does to that dry glue is it replasticizes it, melts it, and welds it together.

So now I take my file, and I have a technique where I'm just using the edge, and I'm going to trim it flush.

>> TOM: So we've got our tabletop fully veneered, both top and bottom, and this beautiful edge.

Now we're going to add that bit of accent-- the contrasting curly maple band.

Just like this table over here.

We're going to cut a little rabbet, which is an inside ledge, around the edge, and then lay in that band.

In the center, we'll also add a curly maple button, just one inch in diameter.

>> So I have the button pre-cut that I made with a plug cutter.

And that's going to go right in the center.

We'll drill a hole with the fours in a bit.

Put glue around this hole, especially up the sides.

And then I put a button right in, and tap it.

(tapping) And here's the binding, which is a strip an eighth of an inch by an eighth of an inch, and it's curly maple.

And Tom is going to route a ledge around the perimeter of the tabletop.

We're going to be putting a bead of glue right on that rabbet ledge.

And then we'll inlay this into that edge.

>> TOM: Nice.

That's nice.

All right, now we'll set this top aside, give it a couple hours for this edge band to harden, and come back and clean it up.

We took off all our tape, we leveled the button.

Now we're going to clean up the edge and get it flush with that edge veneer.

Get it in the vise.

I'm going to use a sharp card scraper and lightly touch on the maple, get those nice little strings off.

(scraping) That's good.

Almost done.

(scraping) All right, so with the edge done, we're ready to lay our top down flat.

We've already leveled our center button.

We just need to do a little cleanup of the edge, and then some orbital sanding.

So I'll take my card scraper and work in from the edge and get that little bit of high veneer... >> Perfect.

>> TOM: ...and glue that might be on the surface.

I'm sweeping inwardly with these cuts.

>> That's a good job.

(sander running) >> TOM: That looks beautiful, Terry.

All that's left now on this top is to break that edge strong, and we'll set this top aside and get started on the base.

The base consists of a cross lap joint in heavy walnut pieces at the bottom.

Now, we've got this dado in the center.

It's a center lap joint we're creating, where it comes over and interlocks.

And into that we'll place our column.

It's one and 7/8 thick, about about four inches wide.

Now, to work on our own stock, we first have to mark it out.

So I've oriented my pieces how I like them, and marked the face, meaning the face up, and indicated where I want my lap joint to happen.

So I'll set this aside, and I'll start with this piece.

And I've already marked the center of the piece where I want to cut my lap.

I'll set it down on my crosscut sled with a dado head inside.

It's going to cut about a 5/8 inch thick dado.

And it's set to half the height of the thickness.

I'm going to make a little indication where I want to remove, and I'll set a stop on the right side so that it indexes right on the edge of my dado groove that I can see clearly on the sled.

♪ ♪ So now's the moment of truth.

We'll test our lap.

Our face is up.

Beautiful-- perfect fit.

Now all that's left of this cross lap base is to make this shallow cut for the feet.

And see, our foot steps down about 3/16 of an inch, and we'll make that cut while we're right here at the crosscut sled with our dado cutter on all four feet.

Then I'll meet Terry back at the bandsaw, we'll draw our profile shape for our foot, saw that out, and clean it up.

(blade buzzing) So Terry, we've got our feet all started.

We've got our notch for the top of the foot.

Now we've got to mark them out.

How are you going to do that?

>> I have the pattern that I used on the original.

And what we'll do is lay out that pattern.

So I'm just going to draw with a pen a nice dark line, and I'm going to turn it over and do the same on the other side.

>> TOM: So Terry will get all four feet marked out.

(bandsaw running) (scraping) Good.

Now that we've got them all cleaned up, we're ready to glue up the base.

How about I'll squirt the glue and you spread it, Terry?

>> Sounds good.

>> TOM: I can't imagine this ever coming apart.

♪ ♪ So the glue's all cleaned up.

We're all set with the base.

We'll let that set for a while.

The last element we need to make of this table is the column that joins the base to the top.

And to do that, we'll head over to the lathe.

I'm over at the lathe, ready to make our center column.

I've changed my shirt to get a higher collar, because the chips are going to be flying.

I took a square walnut blank and found the centers, and then knocked the corners off to make the work a little quicker.

Then I mounted it between these centers to hold the work piece.

As the walnut spins, I'll be cutting it with tools from this side to get it to our shape.

Now, to begin with, I'm going to use a roughing gouge to get it to the round shape.

And my goal at first is to just get it to that largest diameter at the bottom of our column.

So I've set these calipers to that diameter and we're ready to get started.

(scraping) I'm going to use a parting tool with my calipers to get to that diameter.

So now that we've got our round, we're ready to mark our critical points on the column.

We'll mark our bottom just about a quarter inch up.

And then where these beads are, and the column tapers.

These are also necessary to know.

Here.

And here.

And this is the top of our column, and our tenon is in that area.

So next, I'm going to cut the bottom clean to my line, and then I've set some calipers to get my different dimensions at the tapers.

So we'll make those depth cuts, cut our tapers, and round our beads.

♪ ♪ So we've got the column all cleaned up.

We're ready to attach it to the base.

How are we going to do that, Terry?

>> I made a drill guide on the drill press I drilled four holes.

Now I can use this guide on the base.

I'm just going to put the screw in this center hole, and line up this mark that I measured out, and I'm going to put a mark also on the column, so it'll keep everything square.

I'm going to screw this down to hold it steady while I drill the holes.

I've got a stop on my drill, just a piece of tape.

That tells me how deep I need to go, and I can stop when I hit that piece of tape.

♪ ♪ Now we can remove the drill guide.

>> TOM: So we've got a little brush here.

>> We have a little plumbers flux brush.

Put a little amount of glue on that.

Put a little bit on each dowel.

And then I'm going to put some glue on the upper part of the dowels.

I put it both in the hole and on the dowel.

That wood to wood, I like the sound of that.

>> TOM: That's nice.

>> Now we're going to put this anchor screw... (drill buzzing) >> TOM: Wow.

>> That's very tight.

And that screw will hold that while the glue dries, and years into the future, that's not coming out.

>> TOM: That's great.

So we've got our base all glued up.

Now we turn our attention to the subtop.

This is a disk we made out of solid walnut.

It's 7/8 inch thick.

Cut a round circle, drilled a one-inch hole in the top for the tenon, and pre-drilled some screws to attach to the top.

>> So here we go.

We'll put some glue on the subtop mortise hole.

We'll put some glue on the tenon.

We'll put some glue on the wedge, which is sized to fit.

We're going to drive this home, which swells the tenon and wedges that in.

It's important that the end grain is oriented either side of this wedge, otherwise we'd split that subtop.

>> TOM: Okay, and I'll hold it down while you do that.

(hammering) >> It's not going in any more.

>> TOM: That's awesome.

So we just need to trim this flush, then we can attach our base to the top.

I just cut that tenon flush, gave it a little scrape, and we're ready to go.

We're just going to lay our top down face down, and then flip our base.

And we found our center already.

>> You're letting that be its own drill.

>> TOM: Let's see how she looks.

Oh, it's beautiful.

That's something to be proud of, Terry.

>> It's a beautiful thing.

>> TOM: So for finish, I'm going to go with Danish oil on a table like this, and we'll probably put three or four coats.

And as a final treatment on the top, we'll use something a little more durable, maybe a urethane or tung oil varnish blend.

I like to just apply it with a brush.

You can even put it on with a rag.

Oh, this is always a very satisfying moment.

Because it's as if the wood comes alive.

I'd say it's looking pretty good, Terry.

>> It looks lovely.

>> TOM: So, please, join me next time for more great projects right here on Classic Woodworking.

♪ ♪ ♪ ♪ >> Closed captioning is provided by AWFS, the Association of Woodworking and Furnishings Suppliers.

Funding is provided by... >> Woodworking is a passion.

Woodcraft understands that.

We offer name brands and tools for fine woodworking.

Woodcraft, proud sponsors of Classic Woodworking.

And by Felder.

>> It's not only about work.

It's about fun and success.

We are with you.

Felder Group is your partner for your woodworking projects.

♪ ♪ >> And by SCM-- a rich heritage of woodworking technology since 1952.

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