ANNOUNCER: MAJOR FUNDING FOR "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP" IS PROVIDED BY... [WIND BLOWING] [BIRD SQUAWKS] [THUNDER] [CAR ALARM HONKING] WHEN THE UNEXPECTED HAPPENS, STATE FARM HAS THE TOOLS TO GET YOU TO A BETTER STATE.

PROUD SPONSOR OF "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP."

[TRAFFIC SOUNDS] [THEME MUSIC PLAYING] HEY, WELCOME BACK TO "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP."

I'M ROY UNDERHILL.

SO GLAD YOU CAN BE WITH ME AGAIN TODAY, BECAUSE WE'RE GONNA MAKE A REPLICA TOOL CHEST.

WE'RE GONNA MAKE PART OF IT, ACTUALLY.

IT'S BASED ON THIS BIG ONE HERE.

THIS IS A CHEST THAT CAME FROM BRISTOL, ENGLAND, ABOUT 1900.

IT WAS A SHIP'S JOINER'S CHEST.

YOU CAN SEE RIGHT THERE IT SAYS "WHITE STAR LINE, NOT WANTED" DURING THE, UH, TRAVERSING OF THE ATLANTIC TO COME TO NORFOLK TO WORK IN THE SHIPS.

NOW, WE'RE MAKING A REPLICA OF IT WITH JOINTS SCALED THE SAME WAY, THE SAME JOINTS, SAME PLACES, SAME ANGLES.

LOOK AT THESE DOVETAILS, JUST MASSIVE DOVETAILS, BIG OLD ANGLES, TOO.

AND THEY LOOK LIKE CARTOON DOVETAILS.

NOW, INSTEAD OF SEEING HOW TO CUT THESE IN THIS HORRIBLE COARSE HARD AND SOFT WOOD, WE'RE GONNA SEE HOW TO DO THIS UPPER JOINT USING SOME OF THE TECHNIQUES FROM DOVETAILING TO LAY THEM OUT.

THIS IS CALLED A BREADBOARD JOINT, A, UM...CLAMPED JOINT.

IT'S A BOARD GOING ACROSS THE GRAIN OF THE BROAD LID TO KEEP...TO HOLD IT FLAT SO THE BOARD CAN'T WARP.

THIS UPPER ONE, THIS CROSS BOARD KEEPS IT, UH, LEVEL AND TRUE ALL THE WAY ACROSS.

SO WE'RE GONNA SEE HOW TO DO THAT.

IT'S A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT.

WHY SHOULD WE CONTRIBUTE TO THE MANIA FOR HAND-CUT DOVETAILS WHEN WE CAN DO A BREADBOARD JOINT RIGHT NOW?

SO HERE WE GO.

THIS IS WHAT THAT JOINT LOOKS LIKE BEFORE IT'S PLANED.

YOU CAN SEE I'VE GOT THE TENONS COMING THROUGH ON THE OUTSIDE, AND IT'S ALSO... DOWN INSIDE THERE, YOU CAN SEE THERE'S A... A LITTLE HAUNCH, AND THAT RUNS THE ENTIRE LENGTH OF THIS PIECE THERE.

ALONG WITH THE TENONS THAT YOU SEE COMING OUT HERE, THAT HAUNCH HOLDS THE BOARD ALL LEVEL.

SO WE'LL START WITH THIS PIECE HERE.

THAT'S GONNA BE THE CLAMP, THE BREADBOARD END, AND HERE IS THE PIECE WE ARE GOING TO WORK ON INDEED.

ALL RIGHT.

SO LET'S GET GOING.

I'M GONNA MOVE THIS FELLOW OUT OF THE WAY DOWN HERE.

AND WE'LL START WITH PLOWING THAT GROOVE FOR THE HAUNCH.

SO I'VE GOT-- OH, ACTUALLY, LET'S NOT.

LET'S START WITH THIS.

I NEED TO MARK THE FACE SIDE ON BOTH PIECES.

SO HERE, DOWN BELOW WHERE WE'RE GONNA WORK AND UP HERE.

YOU ALWAYS WANT TO KEEP WORKING FROM THE FACE SIDE, SO WE HAVE IT LEVEL ON ONE FACE, THEN WE CAN PLANE OFF ANY ERROR ON THE OTHER SIDE.

SO THIS IS READY TO GO NOW.

MOVE THIS TO THE VISE.

WE'LL PLOW DOWN WITH THE PLOW PLANE.

I'VE GOT A...OLD COMBINATION PLANE HERE.

FENCING FROM THAT MARKED SIDE.

I'VE GOT MY SQUIGGLE MARK, THAT RAT TAIL ON THE SIDE WHERE THE FENCE OF THIS PLANE IS.

YOU CAN SEE IT'S JUST CUTTING THAT GROOVE NICE AS IT CAN BE ALL THE WAY DOWN.

SO I'VE GOT, I BELIEVE, A 3/8-INCH GROOVE, UH, IN A...CENTERED ON THIS ONE-INCH STOCK.

AND IT SEEMS LIKE IT'S DOWN ALL THE WAY.

IT'S VERY EASY TO NOT CUT ALL THE WAY AT THE BACK HERE.

WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THE...

THERE YOU GO.

SEE, IT'S CUTTING AGAIN.

I WOULD HAVE STOPPED TOO SOON AND HAD A SHALLOW GROOVE, BUT NOW IT SEEMS LIKE WE'RE ALL THE WAY DOWN.

SO THERE YOU GO.

YOU CAN SEE THAT IS THE PLOW PLANE.

THERE'S THE LITTLE FOOT THAT HAD TO RIDE ON THE WOOD TO MAKE IT STOP CUTTING.

ALL RIGHT.

I MADE THAT GROOVE MATCH UP WITH A CHISEL THAT I'M GONNA USE TO CUT THE MORTISES FOR THE TENON.

YOU CAN SEE HOW THAT FITS RIGHT INSIDE THERE.

SO THAT'S PART OF THE SYSTEM.

THE NEXT PART IS WE'RE GOING TO SET UP A GAUGE NOW, AGAIN FROM THE FACE SIDE, WITH THE TWO TEETH-- YOU CAN SEE HOW THIS HAS TWO TEETH, ONE, TWO.

TWO LITTLE TEETH RIGHT THERE.

LINE THEM UP EXACTLY-- LET ME CHECK AGAIN-- EXACTLY WITH THE GROOVE THAT WE HAVE PLOWED.

AND SO NOW WE CAN TRANSFER THIS GROOVE ONTO THE OTHER PIECE.

SO, LET'S SEE.

I'M GONNA MOVE THIS ON THE BACK FIRST.

SO THIS IS WHERE THE MORTISES ARE GONNA COME THROUGH.

AND THIS IS THE PROBLEM WITH THIS HARD-SOFT WOOD-- BOY, DOES IT...YOU RUN OFF TRACK SO EASILY.

UH, IT'S LIKE LAYERS OF PLATE, OF STEEL PLATE WITH SPONGE CAKE IN BETWEEN.

IT'S JUST HARD-SOFT PINE, JUST...JUST THE WAY IT IS.

ALL RIGHT.

SO...

BUT IT'S...IT'S ALL RIGHT.

THIS IS STUFF THAT IS ACTUALLY SOLD AS STAIR TREAD.

SO I'M GONNA TAKE NOW THOSE TWO LINES THAT WE HAVE SET RELATIVE TO THE GROOVE RIGHT HERE AND RUN THEM AROUND THE END.

SO THERE'S THAT GROOVE.

THAT IS GONNA RECEIVE A TENON.

YOU CAN SEE I'VE GOT THE GROWTH RINGS, THE INSIDE OF THE TREE, TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE CHEST, AND THAT WILL MAKE IT, IF IT DRIES MORE, WHICH IS WHAT WE USUALLY ASSUME, IT WOULD CURVE THIS WAY.

SO THAT'S PART OF THE TECHNIQUE THERE.

NOW I'LL CUT... SEE IF I CAN RUN... GOSH.

IT'S REALLY HARD TO GET THE LAYOUT LINES ON THIS KIND OF PINE.

AND HERE WE GO...

RIGHT ON DOWN AND ON THIS FACE TOWARDS ME, BECAUSE NOW WE'RE GONNA DO THE SHOULDER OF THE TENON.

I'M WORKING ON THE BACKSIDE HERE.

I'LL COME AROUND TO THE FRONT.

AND, OH, I'M MISSING A LINE.

I'VE GOT TO HAVE THIS LINE HERE.

SOMETIMES THE TWO TEETH DON'T RUN LIKE YOU WOULD HOPE.

AND...THERE WE ARE.

ALL RIGHT.

SO NOW WE'VE GOT IT.

ALL RIGHT.

SO WE WANT TO NOW SET THE DEPTH OF THIS.

THIS IS GONNA SLIDE DOWN ITS FULL THICKNESS.

SO I'M GOING TO SET THIS GAUGE-- THIS IS A CUTTING GAUGE WITH A KNIFE BLADE IN IT, AND YOU CAN SEE IT HAS A KNIFE BLADE INSTEAD OF A SCRATCHER-- TO THE SAME THICKNESS, AND RUN THAT KNIFE BLADE NOW AROUND THE PERIMETER OF THIS PIECE.

THIS IS GREAT, DOING A BREADBOARD OR CLAMPED JOINT.

IF YOU DO THE LEAF ON A DESK, UH, AS...THIS IS THE WAY YOU DO IT, THE DROP-LEAF FOR A DESK.

LIDS ARE DONE THIS WAY, AND A DRAWING BOARD IS DONE THIS WAY, AND OF COURSE BREADBOARDS.

ALL RIGHT.

SO THAT LINE NOW WE WANT TO CUT DOWN TO, USING VERY NICE HOLDERS.

THESE ARE BENCH HOOKS.

I'VE GOT BENCH HOOKS ON HERE, THESE KIND OF S-SHAPED THINGS.

THEY ARE GOING TO RECEIVE MY BOARD AS I WORK, AND IT TAKES JUST A VERY LITTLE PRESSURE FROM MY SIDE TO HOLD THE BOARD IN POSITION AS WE KNIFE THAT LINE.

SO YOU'RE GONNA KNIFE IN A GUIDELINE FOR THE SHOULDER, BUT IT'S NOT JUST A GUIDELINE.

IT'S ACTUALLY THE FIRST VISIBLE CUT.

SO THE ACTUAL SHOULDER OF THIS JOINT IS MADE BY A KNIFE RATHER THAN THE SAW PASSING BY.

AND THIS WILL ALLOW ME TO USE A LITTLE MORE AGGRESSIVE SAW.

UH, BUT YOU DO IT ANYWAY, NO MATTER WHAT KIND OF SAW YOU'RE USING THERE.

ALL RIGHT.

GOSH, IT'S TOUGH.

THE HARD, THIS DARKER WOOD HERE, THE DARK BETWEEN THE LIGHT IS EXTREMELY HARD.

ALL RIGHT.

WE'LL DO THE OTHER SIDE.

I'LL HAVE TO CONCENTRATE NOW TO KEEP THIS IN HERE, BECAUSE THAT GRAIN IS ALWAYS TRYING TO LEAD ME ASTRAY.

THIS HAS...UH!

ALL RIGHT.

GROWN VERY QUICKLY AND CLEAN TO MAKE A NICE STAIR TREAD, THIS WOOD IS, THESE TREES WERE.

BUT, OH, MY GOSH.

THE CONTRA... YOU CAN HEAR IT JUST CLICKING, JUST CLICKING ACROSS.

SO...HA HA HA!

IT'S...IT'S AMAZING.

WELL...THERE WE GO.

SO HARD AND SO SOFT IN BETWEEN.

ALL RIGHT.

THAT'S ENOUGH.

LET ME SEE IF THAT WILL LET US TRACK NOW, BECAUSE I'M GONNA NOW CUT IN THAT GROOVE DOWN TO THE SHOULDER THERE.

SO THAT GIVES US A LITTLE...

IF I START CAREFULLY HERE, ALL THE WAY ACROSS..

GIVES US...A TRACK.

THAT GIVES US A TRACK.

AND I MOVED IT.

AND...I WANT TO GET DOWN ALL THE WAY BUT NO FARTHER AND THEN CHECK THAT I'M LEVEL ALL THE WAY ACROSS.

[BLOWS] VERY NICE.

ALL RIGHT.

OTHER SIDE.

YOU CAN SEE HOW HANDY THOSE BENCH HOOKS ARE.

THEY REALLY DO... MAKE A... [BLOWS] CONTRIBUTION.

GO A LITTLE BIT.

RIGHT ON DOWN.

SO HERE ON A LONG TENON-- OOH, I'M DOWN THERE.

OH, GOSH.

UH...HAVE TO CHECK THAT WE'RE ALL THE WAY ACROSS.

GOOD.

ON A LONG TENON LIKE THIS, WE'RE GONNA GO AHEAD AND JUST CUT THE SHOULDER-- THAT'S THIS LINE RIGHT HERE-- AND THEN WE'LL SPLIT DOWN TO IT.

AND THIS IS JUST A LITTLE EASIER IN THIS KIND OF WOOD.

STILL, WE DON'T KNOW FOR SURE WHAT KIND OF WOOD WE'VE GOT UNTIL WE DO OUR FIRST TEST SPLIT.

SO I'LL TAKE A BIG OLD CHISEL HERE, A BIG BROAD CHISEL, AND SET IT OUT ABOUT HALFWAY OUT WHERE I WANT TO START SPLITTING AND READ THE GRAIN.

SO HERE WE GO.

JUST START DOWN, AND YOU CAN SEE IT'S RUNNING OUT.

SO I CAN COME OVER ALL THE WAY UP... [HAMMERING] TO THE SHOULDER ON THIS SIDE AT LEAST, BECAUSE THE GRAIN IS RUNNING OUT.

SO IT WON'T RUN UNDER.

[HAMMERING] IF I HAD A CLING-ON THERE THAT DIDN'T WANT TO COME OFF, I WOULD NOT BE ABLE TO GO RIGHT UP TO THE LINE AS I AM, BECAUSE THE GRAIN IS VERY STRAIGHT RIGHT THERE.

SO THAT'S LOOKING GOOD.

DO THE OTHER SIDE.

AGAIN, READ THE GRAIN.

[HAMMERING] SO THAT'S COMING VERY SLIGHTLY IN.

BUT...NOT BAD.

ALL RIGHT.

SO WE'RE HAVING GOOD LUCK WITH THIS...THIS ASPECT OF IT.

THE FIBERS IN THAT...

THE LIGHTER-COLORED WOOD, I THINK THOSE FIBERS ARE VERY SHORT FROM THE RAPID GROWTH OF THIS TREE, BUT AT LEAST THEY ARE STRAIGHT.

SO THEY ARE ALL IN LINE.

SO THERE WE GO.

LOOK AT THAT.

SO THAT'S ALL OFF.

AND YOU CAN IMAGINE HOW LONG IT WOULD TAKE TO SAW THIS.

NOW, GRANTED, IT'S A LITTLE ROUGH.

SO WE'RE GONNA CLEAN IT UP USING A BIG OLD CHISEL NOW.

I'M RELUCTANT TO SHOW THIS BECAUSE I'VE ONLY SEEN ONE OF THESE, AND HERE IT IS.

THIS IS A JOINER'S SLICK.

IT'S A BIG, GIANT, BROAD PUSH CHISEL THAT WE CAN SLIDE ACROSS AND ROCK IN WHERE WE NEED TO AND SHAVE THIS DOWN.

NOW, SLICKS ARE USUALLY USED BY SHIPBUILDERS, BOATBUILDERS, UH...OCCASIONALLY BY CARPENTERS AND TIMBER-FRAMERS AND SUCH.

THIS IS A LIGHT ONE MADE FOR USE IN THE SHOP...

UH...FOR JOINERY.

SO THIS IS A PUSH...

GIANT PUSH PARING CHISEL.

SO YOU DO THAT WITH A REGULAR CHISEL, BUT THIS BIG ONE MAKES IT REALLY GO.

ALL RIGHT.

SO NOW WE'LL FINISH UP WITH A PLANE.

AND THAT WILL BE OUR BIG, BROAD TENON THAT WE WILL THEN CUT DOWN INTO THE 3 SMALLER ONES.

AND I'M GONNA USE TO PLANE THIS NOW A RABBET PLANE.

YOU CAN SEE HOW THIS PLANE COMES ALL THE WAY OUT TO THE EDGE.

SEE HOW THE CUTTING IRON GOES ALL THE WAY ACROSS?

YOU LOOK AT A REGULAR PLANE, IT HAS STOPS ON THE SIDE THERE.

YOU CAN'T DO IT.

THIS ONE GOES ALL THE WAY ACROSS.

SO WE CAN PLANE THIS DOWN.

OOP.

OOP.

AND SET THIS... ON THERE.

THERE WE GO.

SO I'M GONNA LOOK AGAIN AND SEE.

I'M GONNA GIVE THIS A LITTLE MORE IRON.

IS THAT WHAT THAT'S GONNA DO?

GIVE ME A LITTLE MORE CUT.

ALL RIGHT.

THAT'S SMOOTH.

AND IT LOOKS LIKE IT'S DOWN TO THE LINE.

SO I'M GONNA WORK FROM BOTH SIDES.

I'M GONNA KEEP THAT... KEEP THIS VERY ACCURATE.

[BLOWS] SO, YOU CAN...DO THIS WITH A REGULAR PLANE, WORK BACK HERE WITH A CHISEL.

AND THEN TRIM IT DOWN THE REST OF THE WAY.

I SEE I NEED A LITTLE MORE, BUT LET ME SHOW YOU HOW I'M GONNA TEST.

I'LL USE THIS CUT-OFF PIECE FROM, UH... ONE OF THE, UH, BREADBOARD ENDS THERE, AND FIT IT ON THERE.

IT'S A MULLET WE'D CALL IT WHEN WE TEST LIKE THAT.

SO, A FANCY NAME FOR A SCRAP THAT FITS ON THERE.

I SEE I HAVE A LITTLE MORE TO DO RIGHT THERE, AND THE MULLET DOES NOT FIT.

SO I BRING THAT DOWN...

RIGHT TO THE PENCIL LINE, AND THERE IT GOES.

SO NOW WE HAVE THE MULLET SLIDING ALL THE WAY ACROSS WITH A GOOD FIT THERE WITH THAT...THAT GROOVE.

NOW, THE WAY TO TEST FARTHER BACK IS TO SET A GAUGE-- I'M SORRY, A CALIPER-- TO THE END AND THEN TEST ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE ROOT TO SEE THAT YOU'VE GOT THE RIGHT THICKNESS ALL THE WAY BACK HERE.

SO LET'S GO AHEAD AND FINISH IT UP NOW.

I'M GONNA GET THE-- AT LEAST FINISH THE TENONS.

WE'VE GOT ONE GIGANTIC TENON NOW.

WE'RE GONNA PACE THIS OFF IN THE SAME WAY WE DO DOVETAILS.

I'M GONNA HAVE 3 EQUALLY SPACED TENONS WITH EQUAL SPACES BETWEEN THEM.

IN FACT, I'M GONNA MAKE THOSE SPACES EQUAL TO THE OUTERMOST SPACES.

LET ME SHOW YOU ONE HERE.

SO I'M GONNA-- THIS IS WHAT I'M AIMING FOR.

I WANT TO HAVE AN EQUAL SPACE HERE, HERE, AND HERE.

SO I'VE SET OUT THE TWO ON THE ENDS RIGHT NOW.

AND THEN I'LL TAKE A PAIR OF DIVIDERS HERE, AND I'VE SET THESE TO PACE OFF ONE, TWO... AND THEN GO ALL THE WAY, THIS LAST ONE.

I'VE ACTUALLY GOT IT A LITTLE TOO FAR.

I'M GONNA BACK OFF.

SO I'LL GO FROM THAT STARTING POINT ONE INCH IN, FROM HERE ONE STEP, TWO STEPS, AND THEN IT OVERSHOOTS BY AN INCH.

THAT'S GOOD.

THAT'S WHAT I WANT.

I'M GONNA NOW DO IT AGAIN.

ONE.

AND I MADE A PERMANENT MARK HERE... TWO.

INSTEAD OF MY TRIAL-AND-ERROR.

NOW, RESET IN THIS ONE THAT'S AN INCH IN.

AND ONE...TWO.

AND IT'S MAGIC.

WE HAVE SET, UH, THE 3 LINES.

I'LL RUN THESE OVER WITH THE TRY SQUARE HERE.

SET THE PENCIL IN, AND ACROSS.

PENCIL IN, AND ACROSS.

RUN THESE...ALL THESE LINES ACROSS THE END GRAIN LIKE THAT.

AND THEN COME UP ON THIS FACE WITH...

PARTIALLY.

ACTUALLY, I'M NOT GONNA GO ALL THE WAY DOWN.

OOP.

AND THEN MARK LIKE THAT.

AND ACROSS, WALKING, USING THE END OF THE TRY SQUARE AS THE SQUARE COMING UP, AND THAT LEAVES ME THESE TENONS DELINEATED VERY NICELY ACROSS.

NOW, TO GET THE DISTANCE FOR THE HAUNCH, I KNOW THAT I'VE MADE MY HAUNCH 3/8" DEEP.

HERE I'VE GOT THE CHISEL THAT'S 3/8" DEEP, AND SO I JUST USE IT AS A QUICK GUIDE.

I'M GONNA ACTUALLY CUT BELOW THIS LINE THAT I'VE LEFT.

SO THAT'S COMING OUT, THAT'S COMING OUT, THAT'S COMING OUT, AND THAT'S COMING OUT.

I'LL CUT BELOW THE LINE, AND THAT WILL ENSURE THAT I DON'T GET WHAT'S CALLED HAUNCHBOUND.

DON'T REPEAT THAT.

HAUNCHBOUND.

THAT'S WHERE YOU HIT THE HAUNCH... BEFORE YOU HIT THE SHOULDER HERE, AND IT NEVER CLOSES UP.

SO DOWN THE GRAIN.

AND JUST LIKE IN... DOVETAILS, WE CUT THE DOVETAILS FIRST.

SO THAT'S ESSENTIALLY WHAT I'M DOING NOW.

AND THEN WE USE IT AS...OR THEM AS THE TEMPLATES FOR THE PIECE THAT THEY JOIN TO.

SO NOW A COPING SAW.

WE'LL CUT THESE GUYS OUT IN THE MIDDLE HERE.

AND I'M ACTUALLY GONNA GO UNDER THAT LINE.

SO I'VE GONE ALL THE WAY TO THE BOTTOM AND THEN DO MY TURN WITH THE COPING SAW... BECAUSE I WANT THIS TO REGISTER HERE.

THAT'S PLENTY TO REGISTER AND KEEP IT STABLE, BUT IT'S NOT SO MUCH THAT IT WOULD PUSH IT OUT.

AND LET'S SEE IF I CAN GET...

I GOT ENOUGH TURN ON THIS COPING-SAW WEB...

THERE WE GO.

YEAH.

OH, IT'S SO NICE.

...TO TAKE THAT OUT.

THERE YOU GO.

SO THERE'S ONE OF THE TENONS ISOLATED IN THE MIDDLE THERE.

I'LL DO THESE ENDS NOW.

I'LL FLIP THAT OVER, AND AGAIN WE CUT THESE WITH A SIMILAR TECHNIQUE TO DOVETAILS.

SET THAT CHISEL RIGHT THERE WHERE IT WANTS TO GO ON THE HAUNCH AND MAKE A LITTLE NICK.

AND THEN WE'LL CUT ACROSS THE GRAIN TO TAKE THIS PIECE OFF.

AGAIN, I'M GONNA AIM IN.

HMM.

THERE WE GO.

SO I'VE AIMED IN.

YOU CAN SEE THAT'S SLIGHTLY DECLINING IN OR RECLINING IN.

I'LL TURN THIS AROUND THIS WAY.

AND AGAIN... A LITTLE NICK RIGHT THERE.

SO, SAME THING WE DID TO CUT THIS SHOULDER.

WE'LL USE A CHISEL INSTEAD OF A KNIFE, BUT A CHISEL WOULD HAVE DONE IT ALONG THIS LINE AS WELL.

AND THEN I'LL CUT IN.

THERE WE GO.

ALL RIGHT.

HA HA HA!

VERY NICE.

SO NOW WE'LL TAKE THESE TENONS.

SO WE'VE GOT 3 TENONS.

UH...THE 3 TENONS RIGHT HERE-- LUCIANO, PLACIDO, AND THE OTHER GUY.

SO...THAT'S 3 OF THEM.

WE'LL TAKE THE PIECE THAT GOES ON.

HERE'S OUR...MATCHING UP OUR FACE SIDES RIGHT THERE.

SO THERE'S OUR FACE, OUR FACE.

ALL RIGHT.

NOW SET THIS BEHIND AND TRANSFER.

AND IN THIS CASE, WE CAN DO IT WITH A PENCIL.

IF WE WERE DOING DOVETAILS, WE'D DO IT VERY CAREFULLY WITH A KNIFE.

AND TRANSFER THESE LINES UP... AND ACROSS THE END.

SO TAKE THESE AND RUN THEM ACROSS.

NOW, HERE'S WHERE I'M GONNA SWITCH OUT, BECAUSE I WANT TO CUT THE, UH...

I'M GONNA GO TO ANOTHER PIECE.

I'M GONNA CUT THESE MORTISES, BUT ONCE YOU'VE SEEN ONE, THEY'RE ALL ABOUT...

THEY'RE ALL THE SAME.

SO I'M GONNA CUT THE MORTISES THAT ALLOW THIS...

THESE TENONS TO FIT IN HERE.

I'LL DO IT ON THIS OTHER END, BECAUSE I HAVE ONE MORE LEFT TO CUT, AND IT'S LAID OUT JUST THE SAME WAY.

HASN'T GONE TOGETHER YET.

SO I'LL JUST CUT THE LAST ONE.

AND WE'LL SEE HOW IT FITS.

NOW, I'VE DONE A LITTLE BIT OF UNDERCUTTING DOWN INSIDE THERE.

SO I WORKED WITH THE CHISEL IN THE SAME WAY YOU'RE ABOUT TO SEE TO MAKE THIS FIT.

SO LET'S GO AHEAD AND CLEAR THE BENCH.

AND I'LL SET THIS RIGHT HERE.

AND I'M GONNA GO SO FAR AS TO PUT A LITTLE PAD UNDER MY HOLDFAST HERE.

SO THIS HOLDFAST WILL GRIP THE WOOD ON THE BENCH.

TAKE THE MORTISING CHISEL AND LINE IT UP RIGHT IN THAT LINE.

AND SO THERE'S THAT... THOSE DOUBLE GAUGE LINES THAT WE DID BEFORE.

I KNOW MY LEFT-RIGHT POSITIONING, BECAUSE OF THE...

I'M SORRY.

THE TRACING OF THE TENONS UP THE SIDE.

THAT'S WHAT YOU SEE ON THE SIDE THERE.

AND I KNOW MY IN-AND-OUT POSITIONING, THE TRACKS THAT I'M GOING BETWEEN, BECAUSE OF THE DOUBLE-TOOTH MORTISING GAUGE.

SO THAT'S THE WAY WE WORK ACROSS THE GRAIN ONE WAY.

I'M GONNA TURN AROUND.

THIS TIME, I'M GONNA GO RIGHT BACK IN ON THE LINE UNTIL I FEEL IT GIVE THAT LAST LITTLE BIT.

AND THEN THIS ONE.

[HAMMERING] ALL RIGHT.

THEN HERE.

[HAMMERING] AND THERE.

ALL RIGHT.

AND FINALLY HERE.

[HAMMERING] SO, THAT UNDERCUTTING HELPED A LOT.

[HAMMERING] SO, VERY MUCH.

AND YOU NOTICE I HAD THE WOOD A LITTLE BIT LONG.

THAT HELPS, UH, TO KEEP, UH, THE ENDS FROM SPLITTING.

SO IT'S ACTUALLY LONGER THAN IT NEEDS TO BE.

SO YOU'VE GOT TO DRIVE OUT THAT JUNK THAT'S IN THERE, AND JUST WHEN WE'RE DOING MORTISE-AND-TENON WORK, SOMETIMES YOU USE THIS TOOL HERE CALLED A CORE DRIVER.

IT'S A WOODEN PUNCH.

IT'S GOT TO BE SQUARE ON THE END.

AND IT WILL DRIVE THOSE CHUNKS OUT.

SO THERE WE GO.

USE THE CORE DRIVER TO CLEAR IT OUT AND THEN TEST IT.

NOW, TESTING IN A MORTISE MEANS MAKING SURE THAT IT'S ACTUALLY SQUARE TO THE LINE ALL THE WAY THROUGH AND NOT TAPERED.

SO HERE, YOU SET THE TRY SQUARE IN, AND YOU CAN SEE HOW I CAN PUSH THE TRY SQUARE WITH THE BEAM FLAT AGAINST THE SIDE, AND IT COMES ALL THE WAY UP TO THAT LINE.

DO YOU SEE HOW THE BLADE COMES ALL THE WAY TO THE LINE RIGHT THERE?

THAT TELLS ME I'M SQUARE DOWN.

CHECK HERE.

I'M SQUARE DOWN.

CHECK HERE.

AGAIN SQUARE DOWN.

SO WE CHECK ALL OF THESE.

I THINK THAT'S READY TO GO.

SO WE'LL GO AHEAD AND PUT THAT ON THE END AND THEN START PLANING IT DOWN WITH A BLOCK PLANE.

NOW WE'LL SEE.

THERE MAY BE A LITTLE BIT OF TUNING WE HAVE TO DO.

BUT THAT'S WHY WE LEAVE IT A LITTLE BIT LONG, BECAUSE IT ACTUALLY SUPPORTS IT, KEEPS IT FROM SPLITTING AS WE DRIVE IT DOWN.

YOU CAN IMAGINE IF I HAVE A LITTLE BIT OF BUMPITUDE IN HERE-- AND IT COULD HAPPEN...

SO IF I SEE LITTLE HANGERS-ON IN THERE, I'LL REACH DOWN AND SHEAR THEM INSIDE.

[BLOWS] DRIVE THAT DOWN UNTIL THE SHOULDERS COME UP TO MATCH.

AND ON THIS FACE SIDE, IT IS JUST A PERFECT LITTLE FIT.

YOU CAN SEE THE WAY THE TENONS COME THROUGH THERE ON THAT SIDE.

IT'S OVERHANGING A LITTLE BIT OVER ON THIS SIDE, BUT THAT'S... THAT'S AS IT SHOULD BE.

WHATEVER ERROR WE HAVE--THESE ARE DIFFERENT BOARDS HERE-- WE MAKE SURE THAT IT'S FLAT ON ONE SIDE, AND THEN WE PLANE IT DOWN THE REST OF THE WAY.

SO, TO TRUE THIS UP HERE, I'VE GOT THE BLOCK PLANE, AND WE DO THIS AFTER IT'S GLUED, BECAUSE THAT KEEPS ANYTHING FROM TEARING.

BRING THAT BREADBOARD, UH, DOWN NICE AND SMOOTH.

THERE WE GO.

ALL RIGHT.

AND THAT...HA HA HA!

EXCEPT FOR THE OTHER END, TO GO ON OUR TOOL CHEST IS THE BREADBOARD END, USING THE TECHNIQUES FROM DOVETAILING TO LAY THEM OUT AND MAKE OUR CHEST HERE FROM BRISTOL.

SO THERE YOU GO.

WE HAVEN'T HAD TO DELVE INTO THE MANIA FOR HAND-CUT DOVETAILS.

WE'VE DONE SOMETHING NEW, A BREADBOARD END, A CLAMPED JOINT ON OUR TOOL CHEST FROM BRISTOL.

SO THERE YOU GO.

THANK YOU.

THIS IS ROY UNDERHILL HERE IN "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP."

MAY THE GRAIN BE WITH YOU ALWAYS.

SO LONG.

ANNOUNCER: LEARN MORE ABOUT TRADITIONAL WOODWORKING ON OUR WEBSITE.

YOU CAN FIND US AT pbs.org/woodwrightsshop.

MAJOR FUNDING FOR "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP" IS PROVIDED BY... [WIND BLOWING] [BIRD SQUAWKS] [THUNDER] [CAR ALARM HONKING] WHEN THE UNEXPECTED HAPPENS, STATE FARM HAS THE TOOLS TO GET YOU TO A BETTER STATE.

PROUD SPONSOR OF "THE WOODWRIGHT'S SHOP."

ROY UNDERHILL IS THE AUTHOR OF "THE WOODWRIGHT'S GUIDE: WORKING WOOD WITH WEDGE AND EDGE," AS WELL AS OTHER BOOKS ON TRADITIONAL WOODWORKING, ALL PUBLISHED BY THE UNIVERSITY OF NORTH CAROLINA PRESS AND AVAILABLE IN BOOKSTORES AND LIBRARIES.