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Indonesian Expedition First to Summit in 1997
April 26, 1997
By Liesl Clark

Today, members of an Indonesian expedition were the first to reach the summit of Mt. Everest during this year's climbing season. On the 24th of April they made an attempt to move to Camp IV, but turned back because deep snow and high winds prevented them from inhabiting the high camp. The next day, the Indonesian expedition successfully moved from Camp III up to Camp IV, while breathing supplemental oxygen, putting them in the first position for a summit attempt this year.

Last night, the team left Camp IV between 10:00 pm and midnight for their bid for the summit. The Indonesian summit team consists of three Indonesian climbers and three Russian climbers, including Anatoli Boukreev, a climbing guide who was instrumental in rescuing stranded climbers above the South Col last year.

As of 10:00 am today, news came in to Base Camp that the team had reached 8,600 meters, with an estimated hour and a half to go to the summit. David Breashears and Pete Athans, who are at Camp III, reported that the weather was very good for a summit attempt. The winds were low and there were very few clouds.

The Indonesian expedition leader, Captain Rochadi, reported this afternoon that two Indonesian climbers, Misirin and Asmujiono, reached the summit of Mt. Everest between 3:15 and 3:30 p.m. along with the Russian guide, Anatoli Boukreev, two other Russian climbers and their sirdar (Nepali climbing leader), Apa Sherpa. The third Indonesian climber turned back before reaching the summit because the weather had deteriorated during the course of the afternoon. All of the climbers are currently on their way down to Camp IV. The descent generally takes about 5-6 hours. According to Captain Rochadi, the climbers were seriously slowed on their ascent by the waist-deep snow and reduced visibility which they had encountered on their way to the summit.

In the meantime, David Breashears and Pete Athans are "dealing with altitude and lassitude" at Camp III, filming, taking the neuro-behavioral tests, and acclimatizing. David Carter and Ed Viesturs have climbed from Camp II to Camp III to join David and Peter for some filming this morning. Carter, upon arriving at Camp III radioed in, "I feel pretty good but a little winded. The last 100 yards was pretty tough. I'm going to try and get some rest and rehydrate myself. It was very hot coming up today."

Our four Sherpas have made one carry to the South Col already, and Jangbu and Kami are making another carry there today before they return to Base Camp this evening. News came in yesterday that both Dorjes were sick at Camp II. A climbing doctor at Camp II, Doug Rovira of the Canadian expedition, reported over the radio that "older Dorje has bacterial dysentery. He threw up his antibiotic last night. Young Dorje has fevers and chills and a sore throat. He's on antibiotics also. Both Dorjes look pretty green. Jangbu and Kami look like a million bucks." Today, both Dorjes will come down to Base Camp as will David Breashears and Pete Athans for a few days rest before making their summit attempt.

June 10, 1997: Back Home (27)
May 25, 1997: Climbers Return to Base Camp (26)
May 24, 1997: Descending Toward Base Camp (25)
May 23 PM, 1997: NOVA Climbers Safely Off the Summit (24)
May 23 AM, 1997: NOVA Climbers Reach the Summit! (23)
    Hear the archived live audio broadcast from the summit
    Read the transcript of the broadcast from the summit
May 22, 1997: Bid for the Summit (22)
May 21, 1997: Helicopter Crashes at Everest Base Camp (21)
May 20, 1997: Moving On Up (20)
May 19, 1997: Poised at Camp II (19)
May 18, 1997: Departing for Camp II (18)
May 17, 1997: Dead Sherpa Found on Khumbu Glacier (17)
May 16, 1997: Jet Stream Winds Blast Camp II (16)
May 13, 1997: Receiving News from the North Side (15)
    May 13, 1997: RealAudio Interview with David Breashears
May 11, 1997: Five Climbers Presumed Dead on the North Side (14)
May 10, 1997: The Waiting Game (13)
May 9, 1997: Pulmonary Edema Evacuation from Base Camp (12)
May 8, 1997: A Hasty Retreat to Base Camp (11)
May 7, 1997: Sherpa Falls To His Death On The Lhotse Face (10)
May 6, 1997: Spin: A Passenger to the Summit (9)
May 5, 1997: Delayed at Advance Base Camp (8)
May 4, 1997: NOVA Climbers Leave Base Camp for Their Summit Attempt (7)
May 1, 1997: NOVA Team Prepares for Summit Attempt (6)
April 26, 1997: Indonesian Expedition First to Summit in 1997 (5)
April 23, 1997: Expedition Leader Dies at Everest Base Camp (4)
April 22, 1997: Japanese Expedition Pulls Out (3)
April 16, 1997: Traffic Reports on Everest (2)
April 14, 1997: Rescue Season Begins (1)

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