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Bid for the Summit
May 22, 1997
By Liesl Clark
At 10:00 pm (Everest time) we received word via radio that all
the NOVA climbers are on their way to the summit. They are
climbing with headlamps and the aid of a full moon. It has
been a long day of decision-making: weighing the factors of
weather, and the number of other climbers (about 50) who may
also make a bid for the summit tonight.
All radio calls with our climbers are punctuated with heavy
breathing, a sign of the severely oxygen-deprived environment
which they have entered. Earlier today, David Breashears, Pete
Athans, Ed Viesturs, Dave Carter, Jangbu Sherpa, Guy Cotter,
Veikka Gustafsson, and Tashi Tenzing were all in their tents
at the South Col (Camp IV) at 26,000 feet. They were not
expected to get any sleep tonight, as they had only five hours
to rest before they began their two-hour process of getting
ready to leave the South Col (Camp IV) for their summit
attempt.
Last night, we spoke with Dave Carter by radio at Camp III
just before he went to sleep. In his altitude-infected raspy
voice, Carter was able to give us a status report. A
transcript of our conversation follows:
Base Camp: Dave, how are you feeling, now that you're
at Camp III?
David Carter: I'm getting a high-altitude cough. I'm
very worried about the wind. But I know I'm in good hands.
I'm a little nervous. I'd be lying if I told you
differently.
Base Camp: When will you go on oxygen and do you find
that breathing supplemental oxygen makes a big
difference?
David Carter: Tonight I will be breathing oxygen on a
half-liter flow. It does make a difference. We had the
oxygen on and my oxygen saturation without breathing oxygen
was 71 and then when I went on oxygen it jumped up to about
84. What's interesting is that I breathed it before I ate
lunch to get my appetite back up and it really helped.
Base Camp: Otherwise, you're feeling well?
David Carter: Right now I feel pretty good. My head
cold is dragging me down a little bit, but I feel good and
ready to go.
This morning, David Breashears called in by radio on his way
up to Camp IV. For voice-over for our NOVA documentary he
described his surroundings and how the altitude is affecting
him:
David Breashears: I left Camp III over two hours ago.
I'm feeling very good, actually, considering the lack of
sleep I had at Camp III without supplemental oxygen. I
crossed the Yellow Band about five minutes ago—it's
about 1,000 feet out of Camp III at 25,000 feet. It's very
hard work. This is where climbing at altitude really starts
to take its effect. I'm starting to feel the effects of the
so-called Death Zone. I'm at 25,200 feet now. The summit of
Everest, 3,800 feet above me, has a very nice plume blowing
off of it at the moment. Jangbu is five feet ahead of me and
Ed is three feet behind me. We tend to take about 10 steps
before we rest and catch our breath. The ropes are really
crowded up here. Looking at the trail 2,000 feet ahead of me
I see eight or nine Sherpas, some resting, some moving.
Next on the radio was Ed Viesturs:
Base Camp: "Ed, last year you climbed Everest without
oxygen. How do you feel being on oxygen now?"
Ed Viesturs: Being on oxygen is a little weird. The
mask is in your way, but it feels better, you don't lose
your breath quite as easily. And probably tomorrow and
tonight I'll feel a lot better and a lot more refreshed
rather than climbing without oxygen.
Base Camp: Are you having any thoughts of home, now
that you're getting close to the end of this trip?
Ed Viesturs: Tomorrow is our last day
basically—this has been a long trip. But to be
successful in these mountains you've got to have a lot of
patience and hopefully ours will pay off.
Base Camp: What about the numbers of people that may
be climbing with you to the summit tomorrow? We hear there
are about 50. Are you concerned about that?
Ed Viesturs: It concerns me—there isn't a lot
of safety in numbers—our plan is to try to get out
ahead of everybody. We think we can do that, but I'm sure
that will be the same plan for the other teams. So, there'll
be a number of people leaving at the same time. If we can
get ahead of everybody then it'll be fine climbing until we
start coming down. Then we'll have certain bottlenecks that
we'll have to look out for, particularly the Hillary Step.
People will be coming up that, but we're bringing a rope so
that if there is a bottleneck we can simply throw another
rope down and have an up rope and a down rope. But it does
concern me with all these people here. There's a lot of
relatively inexperienced people. Hopefully nobody's going to
get in trouble. If they do, of course, the more experienced
people always have to help out.
We again heard from David Breashears a few hours ago, before
we signed off for two hours to enable the team to rest in a
radio-free silence. Before David made his final decision to
go, he expressed deep doubts about climbing to the summit with
so many other climbers, something that he did everything to
avoid last year:
David Breashears: Something is bothering me and
something was bothering me May 9th, 1996. There's things you
really have a lot of faith in and things that you don't and
I have a lot of faith in my gut feelings. I'd like to see
this day sort itself out without me being a part of it. Pete
and I have had a very exhausting day, as we've had to shoot
all of the climbers' neuro-behavioral tests. We need time
now to eat and drink and try to rest. We're not 100% sure
whether we'll be going for the summit tonight, especially
with these growing numbers of people and if the weather is
bad."
Log on tonight, May 22nd at 9:30 pm EDT, to hear the
climbers, live, as they check in with their physician at
Base Camp on their way to the summit.
June 10, 1997: Back Home (27)
May 25, 1997: Climbers Return to Base Camp (26)
May 24, 1997: Descending Toward Base Camp (25)
May 23 PM, 1997: NOVA Climbers Safely Off the Summit
(24)
May 23 AM, 1997: NOVA Climbers Reach the Summit! (23)
Hear the archived live audio broadcast from the summit
Read the transcript of the broadcast from the summit
May 22, 1997: Bid for the Summit (22)
May 21, 1997: Helicopter Crashes at Everest Base Camp
(21)
May 20, 1997: Moving On Up (20)
May 19, 1997: Poised at Camp II (19)
May 18, 1997: Departing for Camp II (18)
May 17, 1997: Dead Sherpa Found on Khumbu Glacier (17)
May 16, 1997: Jet Stream Winds Blast Camp II (16)
May 13, 1997: Receiving News from the North Side (15)
May 13, 1997: RealAudio Interview with David
Breashears
May 11, 1997: Five Climbers Presumed Dead on the North
Side (14)
May 10, 1997: The Waiting Game (13)
May 9, 1997: Pulmonary Edema Evacuation from Base Camp
(12)
May 8, 1997: A Hasty Retreat to Base Camp (11)
May 7, 1997: Sherpa Falls To His Death On The Lhotse Face
(10)
May 6, 1997: Spin: A Passenger to the Summit (9)
May 5, 1997: Delayed at Advance Base Camp (8)
May 4, 1997: NOVA Climbers Leave Base Camp for Their
Summit Attempt (7)
May 1, 1997: NOVA Team Prepares for Summit Attempt (6)
April 26, 1997: Indonesian Expedition First to Summit in
1997 (5)
April 23, 1997: Expedition Leader Dies at Everest Base
Camp (4)
April 22, 1997: Japanese Expedition Pulls Out (3)
April 16, 1997: Traffic Reports on Everest (2)
April 14, 1997: Rescue Season Begins (1)
Lost on Everest
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