Frontline World

EGYPT - Inside Cairo's Living Room, December 2003
a FRONTLINE/World Fellows project
Cairo's Cafes: Taste and Tradition
Three generations of cafe patrons sitting
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It's common for patrons to spend several nights a week at the 'ahwa, often many hours at a stint. Men told me of their loyalties to a particular café. They might travel across the city to visit just the right place. Distinct, though often overlapping, groups of friends are maintained in this way: "I'm going to see my Houka [name of coffeehouse] friends tonight; last night I was here with the Moussa Atteya crowd," says Mahmoud, a regular. I've never met an Egyptian who claimed to be bothered by this giant gender divide. Most are puzzled that it would occur to anyone to ask about it.
Cairo's Streets: Go